79' Malibu Build Thread

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79loserbluebu

G-Body Guru
May 9, 2009
960
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Illinois
Thanks for the kind words 8)


Small update today. I've been really busy the past week with school, and since the 2 year stretch is winding down, the teachers decided to give a bunch of online GM training the last two weeks of class. I think it's something like 20 hours so whenever I get free time at all throughout the day, I'm trying to knock it out so I can get back on the car before it's in the 60's like it was last week.

In trans class, we got the trans torn down all the way and cleaned it up in the parts washer and sprayed it down with some gloss black engine paint after we all individually went through each of our transmission's lube circuits. Next will be power flow which I understand a little better than the lube circuit. I'm following the Ron Session's TH350 Handbook, as well as this thread: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/th350-r ... 45361.html

A quick run-down of the new parts being installed...
New apply band
Hardened int. sprag
Low roller clutch from a 4L60E
Red frictions
Machined down direct piston to add one more friction and steel
Drilled out spacer plate (shift kit)
Stretched springs in the valve body (just a little stretch, 1-2" at most)
4 bushings on the sun gear instead of the normal two
New bushings, seals, gaskets, and thrust washers

Also after I finished a 4 hour course online, I went outside because I got the itch to do something and mocked up my serpentine setup, just without the crank pulley, power steering pump, and a/c compressor. I love the way it looks! Here's some pics to hold off anyone that's reading this. Hopefully tomorrow and Friday I can get some serious progress. I'm tired of scratching up the interior pieces because I keep getting sidetracked :lol:



The top of the bolts are around an inch away from the fan motor. That should be plenty

The alternator post hits the valve cover. I've read that it's sometimes a problem so I'm thinking I just may need to cut down the stud a thread or two just enough to get that little boot on there so it doesn't arc to the cover..

F41 steering box installed

Serpentine compressor, but I swapped the pressure cut off switch from the stock one. The new one had a two pin connector, probably for ECU monitoring. It came out with a snap ring

Replaced this goofy looking timing mark with a un-hacked one


I ended up purchasing a pair of steering shafts from Skillsmoov on www.maliburacing.com
Problem is, I think I got the wrong shafts. I ordered one for my dad's 87' 442, and my car. Since my car has an 83' column and box, the stock shaft will work fine. It's actually suprisingly the same as my dad's. Here's a comparison of what is wrong.

Note: Did not turn the shafts to take these pictures. the way they are pictured, is that the shaft will slide onto the box, and try to slide on to the column last. The stock shaft is correct, and the ones sent to me did not fit. I did already address this issue with Skillsmoov.


Looks like the top joint is 90° off. If there was a way for me to change it I'd do it without even mentioning it, but sadly it's not in my control.

That's all for now really! I need to get a longer heater hose for the core to the radiator since the pump is a reverse flow. But that's really about it. Oh, also still need to get that darn alternator conversion harness.
 

79loserbluebu

G-Body Guru
May 9, 2009
960
20
18
Illinois
Haha Blake, that's always a last resort option. I wanted to have an excuse to put the Goodwrench valve covers back on, but they are the same height as the chrome ones. Oh well.
 

jrm81bu

Comic Book Super Hero
Jul 9, 2008
3,000
64
48
Antwerp, OH
IIRC you should be able to reclock the back of that alternator to move the post to a better position. If i'm wrong you could buy an alternator with a different clocking. For example some of the alternator part numbers at Advance end with a -11, -7, -9. Those numbers refer to the position of the batt post on the back.
 

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,868
2,030
113
Minneapolis
X2

Undo the four bolts that hold the case together. Do NOT pull it apart.
Just spin the case so that it realigns in the next position, and the post that was touching the valve cover, should now be at the top and clear it fine.
 

79loserbluebu

G-Body Guru
May 9, 2009
960
20
18
Illinois
Sweet guys thanks for the advice! I didn't know if you could take these apart, so I decided not to touch them until I found out a little more about them. I will definately have to do that.

Today I ended up taking out the factory temp sending unit after I put it back in for the rallye gauges. Going to be moving it to the passenger head, and I bought a brass adapter piece so I can hook up the fan controller's temp sensor to the driver side. I also researched today on whether I can keep the heater hoses in the same spots, or if I would have to go from the rad. Looks like people are doing it both ways, so to keep it cleaner I'll go from the water pump and intake. I bought some pretty thick steel tubing so I can make a new brace for my A/C compressor, and I bought some slightly smaller tubing so I can build my own fender braces, similar to what FE3X Clone did in his build. It's supposedly supposed to snow again this weekend :wtf: SO! I guess work will continue to be slow on the car.
 

RITTER

Royal Smart Person
May 26, 2007
2,385
9
38
Hillsdale, MI
I so dropped the ball on that A/C plug :oops:

If you still need one, I believe you are looking for either a TEM 207644 or a TEM 207717
 

SScamino

Master Mechanic
Jun 26, 2009
428
0
16
fishersville, Virginia
<3
 
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