Well finally some progress! Ripped the engine and trans out in a couple hours. Made a mess all over the garage floor and left it there for a couple days before I cleaned up today. I bought a blown up LS1 from a buddy who works at a dealership, for $50. He didn't know any specifics of the engine, other than it made noise. Ripped it apart hoping to find nothing, ended up finding several spun bearings, a snapped rod, and almost all rod bolts stretched. The engine had a lifter noise and they decided to tank it and replace it with a GM longblock. Well actually, ended up I made out like a bandit, the engine had an LS6 intake on it so that means it was an 01-02' F-body. Also, the replacement engine must have been an LS6, because he gave me a brand new LS6 valley cover, with the integrated PCV inside to solve oil consumption issues. 8) The valley cover did not fit the LS1 so I was skeptical of notching the block for it on the engine I'm using, however the taller truck block had enough room for the PCV to clear. So JACKPOT!
Anyways, gutted the cracked LS1, used is as an 80lb. mock up engine. Worked out perfect as seen in pictures. Also purchased a rear license plate pocket from blownbigblock over at
maliburacing.com. Love the way it looks, a little more adjusting and it'll be perfect.
I read a thread over on LS1tech about a 70' GTO Judge clone, with a turbo LQ4 in it, and the guy bought a dual passenger side outlet rad off eBay. I gave it a shot and got lucky. Had to make some new mounts, as well as modify the core support and isolators. I actually had to cut the rubber pieces on bottom because the rad is much thicker. And then I had to drill new holes on the support to set it in place.
I'm using the largest trans cooler that B&M makes, along with a very large radiator, and an AC condensor from a Regal/Cutlass, needless to say it wasn't going to be easy. The stock "X" radiator support braces weren't going to work, so I whipped up some with the vice and a couple tubes of pretty thick 3/8" steel tubing. I may remake the one going from upper driver to lower passenger because it is a little short. I also had to slightly notch the header panel, but with the grille on you can't tell the difference. I don't really know how much the X support braces help, but I just love the agressive look. It will all be painted black, along with using all anodized black fittings and black braided nylon line.
Also included is a couple more pictures of my interior. I am doing some new seat buns, but I don't want to put the seats back in with the reclining backs with no trim
🙁 . I'm having a very hard time finding the trim I need, I may just have to break down and buy the $140 set off of eBay.
Alright enough typing pic time
License plate
Interior
Radiator
Trans cooler, condensor, braces
PERFECTION
Rear end setup
And the ones you've been waiting for
Driver side header
Passenger side header
Firewall
A/C box and coils
And the money shot 8)
The wierd thing about this swap so far is the simplicity of it. Last time putting headers on an SBC in this car, I struggled for hours. This time they fell right in. I will need to ding the primary on each side that touches, but not nearly as bad as the Hooker headers I had last time. I bought them in the crappy paint so I can get them coated and not have to damage the coating.
The best thing so far though, is the fact that for months I worried about A/C heater box clearance. With the F-body coils, shorter spark plugs, and the MSD bendable wires, the wire actually sits in the little indentation on the heater box.
I never get this lucky!!
Hope you all enjoy. Progress may be slow for now. I'd like to get a bare 4L60E case so I can mock everything up before painting the frame. I may take the time to figure out the PCM and fuse block mounting, and get my Dakota digital dash set in place and the wiring run for that.
Thanks for checking it out!