83 Delta 88 Alternator Wont Charge
- Thread starter Chris Tomas
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The alternator bracket will have a ground cable attached to it. Also, you can check where the alternator is bolted to the bracket. Just make sure it's fastened down snuggly. You can check for continuity using your meter. Chances are you probably are getting a good ground.
Having the charge light become dimmer is a promising sign....but 11.9 volts is not good.
Ideally, you want the alt to be putting out anywhere from 13 -14.5 volts.
Btw, junkyards do not test their alternators and components. Mr.Fleming is absolutely correct. If it tests bad, they'll offer you a replacement. Do yourself a favor and have a shop or someone bench test the unit. Is there a starter, generator, alternator rebuild shop nearby? If not, most any auto parts stores are equipped to test your unit.
Having the charge light become dimmer is a promising sign....but 11.9 volts is not good.
Ideally, you want the alt to be putting out anywhere from 13 -14.5 volts.
Btw, junkyards do not test their alternators and components. Mr.Fleming is absolutely correct. If it tests bad, they'll offer you a replacement. Do yourself a favor and have a shop or someone bench test the unit. Is there a starter, generator, alternator rebuild shop nearby? If not, most any auto parts stores are equipped to test your unit.
Maybe it's time to buy a new one not one frome a junk yard thay don't cost that much
Ok, so just to clarify i test ohms from the negative battery terminal to lets say... The alt bracket, and by less is more you mean i should be wanting a higher resistance on the DVOM?
So the ground cable should be attached to the black bottom alt bracket then? lll check continuity for sure though!
And i believe partsource is the only shop in the city to do so, apparently canadian tire stopped testing alternators years ago.
You know, in hindsight i agree haha. I'm just nervous about aftermarket parts, thought that original delco remy parts would be a good choice i guess?
Actually thay r rebuilt and under warranty so just get a new one and b dune whith it
Really? Ok then, if i cant get the charging issue fixed by payday im going to partsource to get a new one.
I should mention that with the original alternator and first swap, i got readings of about 12.8 volts at maximum with no accessories on, with the motor running obviously. This 2nd alternator swap now gives a reading of 11.90 volts.
Heres hoping third times the charm, and ill get at least 13ish volts,maybe 14 (provided that the alt is truly bad)
Heres hoping third times the charm, and ill get at least 13ish volts,maybe 14 (provided that the alt is truly bad)
Also one more thing to note, with the 1st alternator swap, prior to testing its output with the DVOM, my battery was resting at 12.6 volts, upon firing up the motor, the voltmeter showed the battery DID charge to about 12.89 volts and stopped, however that happened with VERY small increments, i.e 12.61, 12.62,12.63 etc.
Keep in mind that was with the original factory wiring before doing the bypass as Jim Hopper suggested.
If my guess is right, then what was happening was the charging stopped due to a damaged fusible link or something in the wiring harness that couldnt handle anymore current. I have a feeling had i done the bypass earlier this might have been over and done with lol. Guess we will see though!
Hope everyone enjoys the rest of their night, and thank you all again for your time.
Keep in mind that was with the original factory wiring before doing the bypass as Jim Hopper suggested.
If my guess is right, then what was happening was the charging stopped due to a damaged fusible link or something in the wiring harness that couldnt handle anymore current. I have a feeling had i done the bypass earlier this might have been over and done with lol. Guess we will see though!
Hope everyone enjoys the rest of their night, and thank you all again for your time.
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