83 Delta 88 Alternator Wont Charge

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So the ground cable should be attached to the black bottom alt bracket then? lll check continuity for sure though!

And i believe partsource is the only shop in the city to do so, apparently canadian tire stopped testing alternators years ago.
The ground cable I'm referring to is connected to the upper alternator bracket.
 
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You being an electronic guy, I assume your voltage meter is working properly. I threw out one, it read about 2 volts low. The current Sunpro volt meter in my 88 Cutlass also reads 1V low.
 
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The ground cable I'm referring to is connected to the upper alternator bracket.

I'm thinking if the engine is turning over normally then the engine's ground is ok. If I had the op's problem with the alternator I would replace the brown wire and connect that to a switched 12 volt wire, red wire from the connector to the battery post on the alternator and an 8 gauge wire from the battery to the alternator.
 
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I'm thinking if the engine is turning over normally then the engine's ground is ok. If I had the op's problem with the alternator I would replace the brown wire and connect that to a switched 12 volt wire, red wire from the connector to the battery post on the alternator and an 8 gauge wire from the battery to the alternator.
Steve,
I agree. If the engine is cranking over normally, then grounding is not an issue.
I would absolutely add that lead to the back of the alternator, whether it be an 8 ga or 4 ga cable. I went with the heavier gauge cable because it was recommended for a higher output unit.
Also, for testing sake, I would run a temporary lead from the +12 V switched source to where the brown excite wire connects on the alternator.
 
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Steve,
I agree. If the engine is cranking over normally, then grounding is not an issue.
I would absolutely add that lead to the back of the alternator, whether it be an 8 ga or 4 ga cable. I went with the heavier gauge cable because it was recommended for a higher output unit.
Also, for testing sake, I would run a temporary lead from the +12 V switched source to where the brown excite wire connects on the alternator.

one of the reason I went with rewiring it is that he doesn't intend on keeping the car that long due to rust issues, my suggestion was just to make it simple to get it working while the car slowly dies. I like those old full size Olds, I saw one out on the county road during a nice snow storm last Sunday when I was taking my grandson to hockey
 
Your battery sounds like it's shot, too. The larger gauge charge line from alternator to battery will help with current draw (big amps, electric fans, high wattage lights, etc.), but won't (shouldn't) have any effect on voltage. A properly charging alternator will put out a minimum of 14 volts- any less, and something is wrong.
 
Your battery sounds like it's shot, too. The larger gauge charge line from alternator to battery will help with current draw (big amps, electric fans, high wattage lights, etc.), but won't (shouldn't) have any effect on voltage. A properly charging alternator will put out a minimum of 14 volts- any less, and something is wrong.
Mostly true but it is possible to have a voltage drop across a smaller gauge wire. In this case you would measure a smaller voltage at the battery and only measure the 14v at the back of the alternator..
 
Mostly true but it is possible to have a voltage drop across a smaller gauge wire. In this case you would measure a smaller voltage at the battery and only measure the 14v at the back of the alternator..
Yeah, but even the factory charge wire is 12ga.= more than sufficient to charge the battery. Unless, of course, it's chafed on something.
I'd be willing to bet the low voltage is a dead cell.
 
I think I used a 10 ga wire prior to going with the 4 ga cable. I felt that wasn't heavy enough to suit my purpose.

Batteries can be deceptive. A dead cell could still indicate a "full charge". Yet it wouldn't have the proper amount of amperage to sufficiently crank your starter.
 
You being an electronic guy, I assume your voltage meter is working properly. I threw out one, it read about 2 volts low. The current Sunpro volt meter in my 88 Cutlass also reads 1V low.
Its brand new, so it should be ok. I havent used the amperage functions of it either yet so the fuse inside the meter should be fine as well.
 
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