84' Cutlass pro touring build

RabbitHoleSS

G-Body Guru
Dec 8, 2019
712
2,105
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Indianapolis
Looking good. Your definitely one of lucky ones.
Just a suggestion but I wouldn't use blue shop towels for final wipe.
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The tork are better. I get them from my stepdad who works in medical supplies. Any lint-free rag will work. And when your done using them for paint prep, just throw them in a box and use later for less precise jobs. Those blue rags fall apart and leave behind residue etc. I started out using blue shop rags, but after I spent 200$ on my 1st gallon of epoxy primer I couldn't justify the risk.
If you haven't looked up and watched Kevin tetz(eastwood) series on YouTube it's invaluable for someone painting there own car.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
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Looking good. Your definitely one of lucky ones.
Just a suggestion but I wouldn't use blue shop towels for final wipe. View attachment 195180 View attachment 195181
The tork are better. I get them from my stepdad who works in medical supplies. Any lint-free rag will work. And when your done using them for paint prep, just throw them in a box and use later for less precise jobs. Those blue rags fall apart and leave behind residue etc. I started out using blue shop rags, but after I spent 200$ on my 1st gallon of epoxy primer I couldn't justify the risk.
If you haven't looked up and watched Kevin tetz(eastwood) series on YouTube it's invaluable for someone painting there own car.
Thanks. I'll check them out.
BTW what kind of epoxy costs that much??? Holy crap.
 

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
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Jul 1, 2018
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NW Indiana
That seam sealer is a bear to grind.
Used a wood chisel believe it or not
Things I've learned... The flimsyness of the roof is scary. Any recommendations? I have the SCT tool which is pretty heavy duty. It's fine on sturdier metal. If I have to use a small angle grinder with 2 or 3 inch sanding discs (rolok) or bristle type It's going to take an eternity
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,619
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Michigan
The flimsyness of the roof is scary. Any recommendations?
When I installed my power sunroof in my Regal I had to cut the center brace for it to clear and found after that the roof was not strong enough to fully support the sunroof when open.
So I cut some 1/8" aluminum and scuffed it and the roof up and then used Panelbond to secure it. I used a couple of HF cargo support bars to put pressure on it until it cured and it worked so well I added a few more pieces across the back area of the roof and now the roof is very rigid everywhere.

IMG_20210619_204816772 (1).jpg
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
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NW Indiana
When I installed my power sunroof in my Regal I had to cut the center brace for it to clear and found after that the roof was not strong enough to fully support the sunroof when open.
So I cut some 1/8" aluminum and scuffed it and the roof up and then used Panelbond to secure it. I used a couple of HF cargo support bars to put pressure on it until it cured and it worked so well I added a few more pieces across the back area of the roof and now the roof is very rigid everywhere.

View attachment 195344
Genius!!! I think I'm going to do it
 
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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
4,179
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mass
That seam sealer is a bear to grind.
Used a wood chisel believe it or not
Things I've learned... The flimsyness of the roof is scary. Any recommendations? I have the SCT tool which is pretty heavy duty. It's fine on sturdier metal. If I have to use a small angle grinder with 2 or 3 inch sanding discs (rolok) or bristle type It's going to take an eternity
I'd mask the partimeter of the roof off like three inches around and chemical strip the majority of the surface.strip the edges w/machine afterwards.those areas are strong and won't distort like the rest of it will with the/any machine.the last thing you want is to insert any heat into that panel.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,136
113
NW Indiana
I'd mask the partimeter of the roof off like three inches around and chemical strip the majority of the surface.strip the edges w/machine afterwards.those areas are strong and won't distort like the rest of it will with the/any machine.the last thing you want is to insert any heat into that panel.
I bought and tried stripper on a front fender. I was not impressed. I can try it again.
 
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