Very cool build. Turbo LS, Overdrive stick and A/C. Going to be a very fun car.
84 Grand National lq4 turbo swap
- Thread starter Rodknok
- Start date
Yes sir, I'm going for that ultimate street fun car. Ls swap turbo manual ac/heat t tops and some beats in the trunk. I built a nova with fuel injected lt1 383 and 6 speed years ago and skipped the ac/heat and end up never driving it as the weather around here is either super hot or cold. Lessons learned.
I'm in Houston. Climate control is a must. We're over 90° for five months or more. Three of those, we're over 95°. We may have two months of nice weather on each end of winter. Winter is mild but still there is plenty of cold and wet (cold enough to want a little heat). In addition, defrost is way, way better with a cold evaporator core to pull the humidity out of the cab.
I hear you, I'm in Las Vegas and we defiantly get the HEAT and mostly mild winters. I could live without heat for the most part but AC is mandatory.
Some more work done. Ran Ptfe an8 feed and an6 return lines running thru a aeromotive FPR. Also added a flex fuel sensor to the return fuel line and wired it up to the terminator ecu.
The turbo intake is done "for now". I'm going to redo it later to get a true cold air setup.
The turbo intake is done "for now". I'm going to redo it later to get a true cold air setup.
Strongly recommend putting a check valve in the PCV valve hose. It looks like you’re relying on the PCV valve to keep from putting boost into the crankcase. And that will work, until it doesn’t due to the PCV failing.
If it does, then you’ll be blowing tons of air through the crankcase and out of the vent which you don’t have hooked to anything presently (passenger side valve cover) .
None of this is a big deal until you blow oil all over the turbo at WOT and 80mph.
My two cents - $15-20 from McMaster-Carr is well spent imho.
If it does, then you’ll be blowing tons of air through the crankcase and out of the vent which you don’t have hooked to anything presently (passenger side valve cover) .
None of this is a big deal until you blow oil all over the turbo at WOT and 80mph.
My two cents - $15-20 from McMaster-Carr is well spent imho.
Very keen eye 64nailhead the pcv system hasn't even cross my mind yet. So my drivers side valve cover does not have a pcv valve in it just a nipple and the hose currently goes to the top of the intake manifold. The VC came off a 5.3 aluminum block 07 with dod if that matters.. That leaves me questioning where my pcv will go and how to plumb the catch can in
Put one either in line or get a different valve cover - one that accepts a PCV valve. You need one if it’s going to be street driven a bunch. And you should put a check valve in that line between the intake and PCV valve too.
FWIW, I made a similar mistake a long time ago. Trust me when I say it will be an oily mess before you identify the problem.
FWIW, I made a similar mistake a long time ago. Trust me when I say it will be an oily mess before you identify the problem.
Almost all buttoned up. New driveshaft is installed and fits perfect. Finished wiring up the Holley Terminator X(dual fans, fuel pump, flex fuel sensor). Installed a new relay box for for the fans and fuel pump.
I loaded up the new tune file to the ecu and cranked over the engine to only find out one of my fuel line fittings is leaking fuel. On a good note motor was making 30 plus psi while cranking. I tossed some fuel down the intake and she fired right up. So I know I have spark and the holley is all wired up correctly.
I loaded up the new tune file to the ecu and cranked over the engine to only find out one of my fuel line fittings is leaking fuel. On a good note motor was making 30 plus psi while cranking. I tossed some fuel down the intake and she fired right up. So I know I have spark and the holley is all wired up correctly.
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