Oh they don't have any car shows. I only mentioned it because they have a McDonald's near them.
84 REGAL LIMITED REAR DEFROSTER
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Oh they don't have any car shows. I only mentioned it because they have a McDonald's near them.
Well I got the right number this time and put it in. It was just a PULL OUT and PUSH new one in. However I am not sure when I pushed it in that it SEATED properly? There is NO ROOM to put your hands behind it. Now when I turn on my lights it does not even light up. The old one that broke at least lit up with lights on. Now I have to open up the dash front again and remove and check it out. ARE THERE ANY tricks to getting the new switch back in seated correctly and knowing for sure? HELP !
" Well everyone - BAD LUCK ! I bought an original OEM NOS GM switch part # 25517657 and the mounting holes DO NOT line up ! Damnit ! I guess there is another switch. This one has mounting holes that are centered TOP & BOTTOM. My switch has the top hole off to the upper right corner as straight across the top to the right, and the bottom hole is off to the left bottom side corner. Does anyone know the correct part #? I have an 84 Buick Regal Limited. I wasted almost $50.00 "
**UPDATE**
OK, the correct part # I used was BAD. The idiot who I bought it from on EBAY never tested it to make sure it worked. I had a strange feeling with the hazy film of rust on the terminals when I got it. It almost appeared it was under water. So after I put it in, I noticed not only did it not work but even the backlight in the center NEVER lit when parking lights were put on. They are supposed to have a light in the center.
SO, it turns out that the wrong one I bought (BUT NEW) is good so far. I had to modify the mounting tabs and cut them off the new switch housing then remount them in the proper spots. That worked PERFECTLY. I dremel-ed off the tabs, then glued them in proper place using measurement filing gel crazy glue and them JB WELD to secure.
The switch is in, and so far it LIGHTS UP when lights are on. Now I am just waiting for some weather to fog the rear window or frost to test the switch completely. So it ends up I never wasted the $50.00, however I wasted the $40.00 buying the useless used one that had the proper mounts. A little ingenuity goes a long way. I pray the defrost works. It should since the switch was NOS.
Well it still does not turn on the defrost. I think the fuse is blown. The old switch must have also blown the fuse. Anyone have a pic. of the fuse block for a 1984 buick regal LIMITED 2 door where the r.defrost fuse is located?
I have a Cutlass diagram but no photo, but if your wiring is the same, it may be the same in the fusebox. A 20A fused white connection for the pink/black stripe wire (lower left on fusebox labled "IGN 1" right above the "Gages" fuse) goes to the timer, and a circuit breaker controlled red connection (lower right on fusebox, located under the 30A circuit breaker in a slot labled "PWR") for the orange/black stripe wire. For reference, a brown connector goes into a near the top center plug called "LPS" for the defogger switch illumination from the headlight switch.
It may be the same, or not. I don't have a Buick book. If you're not getting the "on" light for the defroster, then your power isn't getting from the circuit breaker. If you get the "on" light briefly, then the timer relay (internal) is kicking in but not holding. If the fuse is out, you won't get jack. But it appears it's from the Gages fuse, so if that were blown I'd think you'd already have an indication of that. If wiring, fuse and breaker are good, it's likely the switch.
Good luck.
It may be the same, or not. I don't have a Buick book. If you're not getting the "on" light for the defroster, then your power isn't getting from the circuit breaker. If you get the "on" light briefly, then the timer relay (internal) is kicking in but not holding. If the fuse is out, you won't get jack. But it appears it's from the Gages fuse, so if that were blown I'd think you'd already have an indication of that. If wiring, fuse and breaker are good, it's likely the switch.
Good luck.
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Yes the switch is lighting up when lights are ON. It just won't turn on and light up "ON" on top. The switch is NEW (NOS) so I know the switch is good. I will check the fuses today.
Well I checked all the fuses most of them while still in the fuse block, except for the 30 amps which needed to come out. The ATC fuses have exposed contacts on the back so I used my Ohm meter. All fuses were 0 Ohms or short meaning they are good. None were open. So I have no clue what happened. I never modified any electronics on the car or even opened anything on the interior like trim or panels. The car was never touched since new. I don't know what went wrong with the rear defog...????? DAMN !
Yes, all 2 of them in the fuse block. They pull out and are a metal casing with two prongs - rectangle in shape. Both are short (0 ohms)......meaning they have continuity.
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