BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Diddly squat interior update #125.7
Got the 4th gen shifter boot in. It matches the seats really close so although the color match is poor (non existent?) on the console it actually blends in.
I thought I was going to build a plate from scratch but I dug the factory auto plate out of my parts box and realized it wasn't in mint condition so if I cut it up, I wasn't loosing much. I was able to cut the inner portion out that covered the area near the auto floor shifter itself and glued the 4th gen boot onto the inside lip of the plate. It actually turned out really nice.
The only issue is that because the top of the GP console is so tall and the hole that is stitched into the boot is relatively large, there isn't enough tension to keep it down. It rides up and gets near your hand on the shifter. I don't think it's issue at this point, but if I run into it with my hand in the future I might try to take a tiny black zip tie and try to apply some clamping force around the boot so it stays down.
The way the shifter stick comes out it got close to the right side of the console (and actually hit) when in reverse, so I bent the hurst stick so it's more biased to the left. I get full range of motion so no complaints.
Should stop crap from falling into the black hole that is the console!
Got the 4th gen shifter boot in. It matches the seats really close so although the color match is poor (non existent?) on the console it actually blends in.
I thought I was going to build a plate from scratch but I dug the factory auto plate out of my parts box and realized it wasn't in mint condition so if I cut it up, I wasn't loosing much. I was able to cut the inner portion out that covered the area near the auto floor shifter itself and glued the 4th gen boot onto the inside lip of the plate. It actually turned out really nice.
The only issue is that because the top of the GP console is so tall and the hole that is stitched into the boot is relatively large, there isn't enough tension to keep it down. It rides up and gets near your hand on the shifter. I don't think it's issue at this point, but if I run into it with my hand in the future I might try to take a tiny black zip tie and try to apply some clamping force around the boot so it stays down.
The way the shifter stick comes out it got close to the right side of the console (and actually hit) when in reverse, so I bent the hurst stick so it's more biased to the left. I get full range of motion so no complaints.
Should stop crap from falling into the black hole that is the console!
More a journal for my sanity.
Both the bangshiftbilly
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And the clutch tamer
Seem to claim success lies in pulsing the solenoid open until pressure drops to a determined value. IE the clutch TOB pressure has to hover at a fixed value for a determined amount of time so the clutch acts like a converter.
Everyone else is doing what I am, oddly with the same damn parts (I didn't know they existed) but they fail to have a check valve to allow the clutch to be pressed in even if the solenoid is closed.
The clutch masters one can't be turned on/off
The Magnus/MAP one doesn't have a check valve
The tilton one is non adjustable and non switchable
tiltonracing.com
SO!
I might need to put a timer in (or, more effectively, do a closed loop control that closes the solenoid for a period of time delay once the TOB achieves a specific pressure). Should be an easy Arduino project.
But I am going to wait until I make a run at the track with this setup before.
Both the bangshiftbilly
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And the clutch tamer
Seem to claim success lies in pulsing the solenoid open until pressure drops to a determined value. IE the clutch TOB pressure has to hover at a fixed value for a determined amount of time so the clutch acts like a converter.
Everyone else is doing what I am, oddly with the same damn parts (I didn't know they existed) but they fail to have a check valve to allow the clutch to be pressed in even if the solenoid is closed.
The clutch masters one can't be turned on/off
The Magnus/MAP one doesn't have a check valve
The tilton one is non adjustable and non switchable
Flow Control Valve
Tilton's flow control valve is designed to reduce the chance of losing traction when downshifting and/or the chance of damaging driveline components.
tiltonracing.com
SO!
I might need to put a timer in (or, more effectively, do a closed loop control that closes the solenoid for a period of time delay once the TOB achieves a specific pressure). Should be an easy Arduino project.
But I am going to wait until I make a run at the track with this setup before.
