BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[Northernregal]

You psychopaths trying to race stick cars. I applaud you but talk about doing things with extra, harder,steps.

Either way, looking forward to the data driven recaps from race days.

 

[81cutlass]

Just going to fight the transmission?

Yeah. Mostly a test to see if I can limp it along as-is until this winter when I can rebuild it leisurely. If I can get through the next 2 months without rebuilding it I can focus on getting another run at a sticky track and get my launch figured out.
The little street driving I've done, It doesn't seem to be as bad in 2-3 or 3-4. I can't really test 1-2 WOT under load as it spins so easy it just blitzs the tire from any speed. That's what I am most worried about being able to shift under power as it's what I missed last fall.


In other news:
Trying to find the peak power RPM so I know what to set my rev limiter at. I was thinking 6800.

I have a BTR Stg. 2 blower cam I bought used for $200 like 5 years ago

BTR CAMSHAFT - LSA/LS9 - PDS STAGE 2 - CAM MOTION CORE - CM32742226

BTR CAMSHAFT - LSA/LS9 - PDS STAGE 2 - CAM MOTION CORE - CM32742226

briantooleyracing.com

Survey says?

Quit being a pansy, set it to 7200! Granted I have a m122 vs. a TVS so the blower is probably going to run out of breath or start making heat, but it wants to spin!

Just got my Maggie, BTR stage 2 PD cam tuned and dynoed

Just got back from the tuners. 543rwhp/488rwtq. I’m a bit disappointed in the overall numbers but optimistic about the future. This is on 91 octane (no meth) and it would only make 6lbs of boost with the headers and cam. The tuner said it really needs to be at 8-9lbs to take advantage of the...

www.ssforums.com

 

[81cutlass]

It was too hot to work in the garage this week so I got around to processing some videos.

 

[81cutlass]

Yejus Kripes 7000 rpm sounds like a lot! In all honestly besides my l67 fbird this is my only experience with actually revving anything out, and my experience with my l67 is a factor of magnitude less than this. Probably the first time this old lq4 has spun past 6500. It only look 22 years but it finally revved to 7k rpm lol.

165 IAT rising from at 10 PSI with 75f ambient air temp so although the pulls are short it's not instantly turning boost into heat so that's one check down for extra RPM being OK. It's a bit higher than I want, but I don't have the cold air tube drawing air from in front of the rad so not instantly concerned.
Still 10.7 AFR up top, needs less fuel, again. It's a solid 11.5-11.8 gas scale up to 6250rpm but past there it goes down to the mid 10's so I need to get that resolved. When I forget to switch my second 450 pump on and give it a quick blip it stays right at 12.0 afr running out of fuel pressure (42 psi when base is like 54) so the tune is still set up from 2 years ago when I didn't have enough pump. It has enough pump now, but the tune is still crude and commands the injectors to go essentially static open when the rail pressure drops because I wasn't logging fuel pressure. When both pumps are on it hovers at 72% duty cycle until it goes into the 'dated' part of the table I have yet to fix and ramps in all the fuel.

I need to pack the car tomorrow, I have enough info at least currently to give it a shot at the track Wednesday PM.

The only weird thing in the log is I noticed this weird surging in the RPM and wheel speed. I can feel and hear it in the car, it's oscillating about 250rpm. I'm not sure if its because it's spinning in 2nd gear and 'clawing' for traction or what. It spends about 1.5 seconds between 5750 and 6000rpm before it actually starts picking up wheel speed and engine speed. Not sure what to think? It seems to surge/oscillate at that range and then it finds its way out and then picks up RPM fine, but it gets kinda 'stuck' there for a little bit.

 

[motorheadmike]

Yejus Kripes 7000 rpm sounds like a lot! In all honestly besides my l67 fbird this is my only experience with actually revving anything out, and my experience with my l67 is a factor of magnitude less than this. Probably the first time this old lq4 has spun past 6500. It only look 22 years but it finally revved to 7k rpm lol.

165 IAT rising from at 10 PSI with 75f ambient air temp so although the pulls are short it's not instantly turning boost into heat so that's one check down for extra RPM being OK. It's a bit higher than I want, but I don't have the cold air tube drawing air from in front of the rad so not instantly concerned.
Still 10.7 AFR up top, needs less fuel, again. It's a solid 11.5-11.8 gas scale up to 6250rpm but past there it goes down to the mid 10's so I need to get that resolved. When I forget to switch my second 450 pump on and give it a quick blip it stays right at 12.0 afr running out of fuel pressure (42 psi when base is like 54) so the tune is still set up from 2 years ago when I didn't have enough pump. It has enough pump now, but the tune is still crude and commands the injectors to go essentially static open when the rail pressure drops because I wasn't logging fuel pressure. When both pumps are on it hovers at 72% duty cycle until it goes into the 'dated' part of the table I have yet to fix and ramps in all the fuel.

I need to pack the car tomorrow, I have enough info at least currently to give it a shot at the track Wednesday PM.

View attachment 203266


The only weird thing in the log is I noticed this weird surging in the RPM and wheel speed. I can feel and hear it in the car, it's oscillating about 250rpm. I'm not sure if its because it's spinning in 2nd gear and 'clawing' for traction or what. It spends about 1.5 seconds between 5750 and 6000rpm before it actually starts picking up wheel speed and engine speed. Not sure what to think? It seems to surge/oscillate at that range and then it finds its way out and then picks up RPM fine, but it gets kinda 'stuck' there for a little bit.
View attachment 203267

You don't want my advice...

 

[64nailhead]

If you don’t want to be known as the south of the border ‘sloppy mcrodbender’, then do yourself a favor and knock a couple degrees of timing out of it in that rpm range. Personally, I think you’re fine at 19 degrees with 77% ethanol at 10psi, but it’s easier and cheaper to go at it easy rather than harder until you have all of the ‘kinks’ worked out.

That’s all the rpm I push your 6.0, it ain’t no 4.8

Excellent to see that your IAT’s are staying under control, I agree with you that the boost isn’t turning to heat. Get it back to 11-11.0-11.5 AFR, then put the timing back in.

I’m getting better at reading those HPT logs/snapshots. 😉

 

[Streetbu]

Grab a spare, factory, crank sensor. Wondering if yours might be headed out and that's your 250rpm hunting....

 

[Northernregal]

If you don’t want to be known as the south of the border ‘sloppy mcrodbender’, then do yourself a favor and knock a couple degrees of timing out of it in that rpm range. Personally, I think you’re fine at 19 degrees with 77% ethanol at 10psi, but it’s easier and cheaper to go at it easy rather than harder until you have all of the ‘kinks’ worked out.

The cool kids F'n send it and bend rods....

 

[64nailhead]

The cool kids F'n send it and bend rods....

I should've described it differently - these are the kinks that are hard to 'work' out

I prefer to be a square, as in it's hip.

 

[81cutlass]

I'm certainly not finding any $200 6.0's anymore so I'd prefer to keep the rods straight.

I can trade .2 seconds at the track for non bendy rods or butted rings. Unless it goes 11.2, then it might get the rod bender tune lol.