BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[81cutlass]

What's the backspace, offset or whatever?

Middle of witer blues - no rush - NOT - it will be May in 90ish days - not enough unless I get a 3 month vacation lol

5" BS. Yeah I am intently aware April/May will be here soon so it's no time to slack!!

So if the TVS is a bolt on, then so is a monster Whipple/KB? 🤔

Yep, KB,VMP monster blower will bolt on but as mentioned the 6 grand plus is a kick in the pants. 900hp capable though!!! Not sure my gen 3 rods will like that....

Fedup came through and delivered the wheels today surprisingly!

I was fully expecting to have to notch the frame since 5" bs is a lot on a g body but there's about 3/4" to the rail. The wheel actually sticks out a little more than I expected so I might have to do a more aggressive fender lip roll than I originally did. They honestly might not be true 5" BS and might be closer to 4.5" but I haven't measured to co They clear the shocks and calipers so good news there.

I need to get my drag radials swapped over from my vectors and do a more thorough test fit.

 

[81cutlass]

Been slacking.

Even though I have a proper garage heater now I haven't been taking advantage of it. Got moderately sick last week so my free time went to napping (not Rona) and legit cold rolled in so honestly just too cheap to turn the heater on for 3 hours to make the garage warm enough to putz around for an hour and a half. I was motivated to frame notch but now I don't need to, and although I have all the parts for my instrumentation project I am trying to avoid the whole wiring part because pixies.....

I did stumble on a youtube video on fixing an old Delco radio and the pins that connect the board to the display internally 'desolder' and you just need to resolder them. I dug a really nice equalizer radio out of a 86 Salon when I was 17 and had it in my cutlass for a few months before the display took a crap. I tossed the radio in my parts pin and harvested it when I put the interior back in this car but the display never worked. I took it apart 5 years ago and tried fixing it but nothing looked broken and didn't know what direction to head. I actually am motivated now since this has alluded my repair for damn near a decade so it's personal now haha.

In other news:
One of the guys from Drag Weekend posted a photo of my junk getting loaded on the trailer last fall so it got me thinking about launch strategy so it won't happen, again....

I have my new 15x10's but an split 50/50 on if I should get a set of bias slicks for it OR just swap my 275 DR's from my vectors that were on the car. Dad's 1970's coats 10-10 tire machine doesn't handle rims well over 7" wide so I'll have to take it to the local race tire shop.

 

[64nailhead]

Ya must have told a joke, because everyone is laughing.

 

[motorheadmike]

Ya must have told a joke, because everyone is laughing.

They are pushing the joke... the poor b*st*rd child of NASCAR.

 

[81cutlass]

They are pushing the joke... the poor b*st*rd child of NASCAR.

That blows up the rear end all the time

 

[motorheadmike]

That blows up the rear end all the time

Relax, I secretly love the 2+2.

 

[81cutlass]

Relax, I secretly love the 2+2.

 

[81cutlass]

Put my big boy pants on and found my motivation to work on instrumentation. It was a high of -3f today and the new garage heater does get the air to 55 but the concrete is still like cold soaked to 15f so it's not a lay on the concrete day.

Went to the weird electronics surplus and salvage store and got some rocker switches and relays and holders Friday after work.

Switches will make the 2 temp and 2 pressure sensors feed into the one remaining input for temp and pressure I have left on the factory pcm. I'm using the ac pressure input for the clutch and fuel sensors and the trans temp sensor for the pre and post aftercooler sensors. I dug through my pinout options and found 4 5v signal supplies in the pcm so I tapped into those to supply the pressure sensors.

Relays and holders are to offload the e-fan relay out of my main fuse box. I have usually ran both of the intrepid fans off one relay but have had one or two instances of the fans randomly stopping and engine overheating, and never could replicate the problem until Drag Weekend last fall when I determined the relay was getting hot. 1 relay and all the current was too much and heatsoaking. I unplugged one of the fans and that solved it, but I never hooked up my other fan to turn on with the ac on and plan to turn on the 2 fan outputs on the pcm so I'll flip on one fan at like 180 and the other at 210 or so and also trigger that with my AC. It only happened when hot, in traffic, after a long cruise at highway speed and then only occurred maybe 3 times in the 5 years I've had the setup together so it took a lot of under hood heat combined with the fans being on for a long time to cause an issue. If I didn't do a drag week style event I probably would have never encountered the issue really.


Parts!

You might be able to see the one wire near the right side, that's the fan power out wire, it got hot! Yikes! insulation burned and flaked off. Could have been a fire for sure. I'm isolating this one for good reason.

Notched the FPR bracket for the fuel pressure sensor and used a 1/8 street elbow to clear the filler neck.

And I was making ok progress and went to my phone and pulled up marketplace for a minute and saw this arbor press for $40 posted so I snapped that up.

It's going to be under -20F tonight and -8 as a high tomorrow so I'm probably going to do some work inside and push off anymore garage work until the high is above zero since I have to do some under car work on the wiring. At least I have a plan and am pretty sure I can set everything up as desired.

 

[81cutlass]

Hizzah, the big flaming yellow sphere in the sky overcame the cold front and it was +15F yesterday so I could work in the garage comfortably.

Played around with my sensors (tehe). Got my fuel pressure sensor working and found there is enough 5V inputs that I forgot about that I don't need my rocker switch on the pressure sensors. The stock PCM's have probably 8 5V inputs that you don't need if you aren't running EGR, fuel level, trans, or AC through the computer so I robbed the fuel level sensor 1 and 2 voltage, 1 for my fuel pressure and 2 for my clutch pressure.

Still working out my temp sensor wiring (using the auto trans pressure) and I am getting close on that one. Not quite there but I have a path forward.

Did a 'tube video since the isn't much info online for this topic with HPtuners and it's actually easy once you figure it out, but not intuitive at first.

 

[81cutlass]

Spent most of the early afternoon cleaning/organizing the garage to make room for the Lathe since that is coming home next weekend.

Found a home and tested my clutch valve just to make sure 12V would actuate it and it flows the way I need. It does!

Found the other wire for my trans temp input for the aftercooler water temp sensor, got that set up and couldn't get HPtuners to log the temp right so I just did it the brute force way and created my own temp to voltage function (It's a cubic function) , had HPtuners log voltage and did it myself.

I think temp sensors are special 5V constant current supply, and in this case I always got 0.014 amps, but I tried using basic Ohms law to back solve the voltage off the resistance chart lowdoller supplied and it didn't work out right. V=IR and I had R and V, but I never made sense.

And result?

IT WERKS