87 Monte Carlo LS

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Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
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On another note I didn't check yesterday because my friends minivan radiator hose found jesus and he didn't know what year it was so we spent too long finding the right hose! I plan to do oil change on the same van tonight and make him help me with the fender bolt.
 

UC645

G-Body Guru
Apr 20, 2020
692
93
Kittanning, Pa
I want a street/ strip car and the 1.94s and 1.50s are both stock to the motor but they've been replaced as far as I know.
Im not knowledgeable enough to tell you what you should not or should run on those heads, but take Rabbit’s advice on the camels. They will need inspected at the least so you can have a plan forward.
Here’s a little flow info on 461X heads:
And some other info on camels as a whole:

If you’re planning on sticking with the press in studs and stamped rockers, your cam options will be kind of limited so you’re not pulling the studs out.
And if you’re hunting for more info, this is absolutely the place to go:
 

Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
31
18
Im not knowledgeable enough to tell you what you should not or should run on those heads, but take Rabbit’s advice on the camels. They will need inspected at the least so you can have a plan forward.
Here’s a little flow info on 461X heads:
And some other info on camels as a whole:

If you’re planning on sticking with the press in studs and stamped rockers, your cam options will be kind of limited so you’re not pulling the studs out.
And if you’re hunting for more info, this is absolutely the place to go:
I am unaware if it has press or screw in studs but I will check tonight when I have the time. I want to shoot for 350 or 400 horsepower. Thanks man.
 

Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
31
18
The heads are the 468 or something like that castings from the 64 to 66ish on the 327 small blocks. They had a 3 angle valve job new seals and the heads were decked. It came with some roller rockers of the 1.52 comp cams ratio and some pushrod guide plates that go on the studs.
 

UC645

G-Body Guru
Apr 20, 2020
692
93
Kittanning, Pa
The heads are the 468 or something like that castings from the 64 to 66ish on the 327 small blocks. They had a 3 angle valve job new seals and the heads were decked. It came with some roller rockers of the 1.52 comp cams ratio and some pushrod guide plates that go on the studs.
If you’ve got guide plates, you’ve got screw in studs. Snap a picture of them when you get a chance, 468 doesn’t ring a bell
 

Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
31
18
If you’ve got guide plates, you’ve got screw in studs. Snap a picture of them when you get a chance, 468 doesn’t ring a bell
I dont quite remember but I will when I get the chance
 

lilbowtie

Comic Book Super Hero
Jan 7, 2006
3,421
113
Canton Mi
Just found your post and read it over. Your HP goal should be pretty easy to reach. As far as your crank a cast will do just fine at that HP, to find what you have get the casting number from it and check. As far as dual plane intakes the performer RPM was the best I used for HP and higher rpms. I hope those double hump heads have the holes for mounting your accessories. I see your block is a drivers side dip stick so you have a 2 piece rear main non roller. Put pen to paper and decide if you what to spend the money to go roller. It would have been a lot easier to pull the front end off as a clip - around 12 bolts. When you chose you cam make sure it complements the rest of your drive train and buy the springs for that cam. Make sure they get installed at the proper height and that your valve train geometry is right.



frt clip.png
 
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Montepit87

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Sep 14, 2020
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20201008_182704.jpg
20201008_182620.jpg
20200930_194431.jpg
20201008_182704.jpg 20201008_182620.jpg 20200930_194431.jpg Here are some pictures of my progress of the last however long. The ones of the heads suck do to me being in a hurry. I only unwrapped one head for the same reason. The heads are unported and I plan to do a bit of porting but not too much for my sanitys sake.
 
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Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
31
18
Just found your post and read it over. Your HP goal should be pretty easy to reach. As far as your crank a cast will do just fine at that HP, to find what you have get the casting number from it and check. As far as dual plane intakes the performer RPM was the best I used for HP and higher rpms. I hope those double hump heads have the holes for mounting your accessories. I see your block is a drivers side dip stick so you have a 2 piece rear main non roller. Put pen to paper and decide if you what to spend the money to go roller. It would have been a lot easier to pull the front end off as a clip - around 12 bolts. When you chose you cam make sure it complements the rest of your drive train and buy the springs for that cam. Make sure they get installed at the proper height and that your valve train geometry is right.



View attachment 159003
I wouldnt have the room for that. Also I wish I wouldve known and researched instead of working on it after a long day. But it wouldnt have worked out anyway due to the bolt that is still holding me back. I tried pulling and that didn't work none. I want a manual swap but I also dont want to be replacing my rearend too soon yet. Thanks for the tip on the intake.
 

Montepit87

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2020
31
18
20200912_122850.jpg
This is what I have to deal with. I dont have a welder but I plan on buying one on my next paycheck. My current plan is a handicap sign and some yelling. Probably slot of yelling but anyway I might go for a replacement pan instead. 20200912_122850.jpg
 
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