87 Monte Carlo LS

[pagrunt]

The heads are unported and I plan to do a bit of porting but not too much for my sanitys sake.

Those are the '68 & older heads, no holes for you accessory brackets or even a trmp switch/sender hole. IMO I'd sell them to someone who is doing a resto or hot rods the older heads & get something simular in a more modern head. It'll be too much of a headache (+$$) have to go retro with a short water pump & matching accessory brackets & getting hoses made to use a older style P/S pump. A good set of 2.02 heads from summit would work & be budget friendly.

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[RabbitHoleSS]

I actually had a set of 186s on my 355. It was a fun driver. I used a comp 280h cam,1.5 roller rockers, guideplates, performer rpm intake,2.02/1.60 valves,and the mods i mentioned above. I ran 93 in it exclusively. Id guess it made around 300rwhp. I used these brackets from ict. They looked and fit great. Just make sure you have the right power steering pump with the removable stud on the back. Heres a pic of the wrong kind of pump to use with these brackets.

Hers the right kind. With the removable stud on the back.

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It sounds like you got most parts to put it back together and drive it.

ICT Billet 551576: Billet Power Steering Pump and Alternator Bracket Kit for Small Block Chevy with Double Hump Heads - JEGS

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For reference on that fender bolt. Heres the fender side. Its slotted.

Heres the body side. As you can see I broke the clip when i removed it. But if you got that bolt spinning the fender should be loose enough to pull out. Just gotta put some *ss in it since its being held in with rust and mud.

Also if you use the ict brackets make sure to torque the bolts down again about a week after install. Or use some threadlocker cuz i lost a nut off mine. Cool car hopefully you get it goin before the white stuff flies.

 

[fleming442]

There's not much point in buying a welder if you want a rat-rod-style floor repair unless you can find a steel sign. Most are aluminum, so just caulk and rivet in place (not that I would know).

 

[Montepit87]

I actually had a set of 186s on my 355. It was a fun driver. I used a comp 280h cam,1.5 roller rockers, guideplates, performer rpm intake,2.02/1.60 valves,and the mods i mentioned above. I ran 93 in it exclusively. Id guess it made around 300rwhp. I used these brackets from ict. They looked and fit great. Just make sure you have the right power steering pump with the removable stud on the back. Heres a pic of the wrong kind of pump to use with these brackets.View attachment 159058
Hers the right kind. With the removable stud on the back.

JEGS 60701K: Saginaw-Style Power Steering Pump Kit for 1966-1976 GM - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with JEGS Saginaw-Style Power Steering Pump Kit for 1966-1976 GM 60701K parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

It sounds like you got most parts to put it back together and drive it.

ICT Billet 551576: Billet Power Steering Pump and Alternator Bracket Kit for Small Block Chevy with Double Hump Heads - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with ICT Billet Billet Power Steering Pump and Alternator Bracket Kit for Small Block Chevy with Double Hump Heads 551576 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

For reference on that fender bolt. Heres the fender side. Its slotted.View attachment 159051
Heres the body side. As you can see I broke the clip when i removed it. But if you got that bolt spinning the fender should be loose enough to pull out. Just gotta put some *ss in it since its being held in with rust and mud.View attachment 159052
Also if you use the ict brackets make sure to torque the bolts down again about a week after install. Or use some threadlocker cuz i lost a nut off mine. Cool car hopefully you get it goin before the white stuff flies.

I got a pile of sand coming out of the same spot I try to hammer the fender on that part because it's currently pinching the bolt. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Montepit87]

Those are the '68 & older heads, no holes for you accessory brackets or even a trmp switch/sender hole. IMO I'd sell them to someone who is doing a resto or hot rods the older heads & get something simular in a more modern head. It'll be too much of a headache (+$$) have to go retro with a short water pump & matching accessory brackets & getting hoses made to use a older style P/S pump. A good set of 2.02 heads from summit would work & be budget friendly.

Summit Racing SUM-152123 Summit Racing™ Cast Iron Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Cast Iron Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Heads at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Summit Racing SUM-162109 Summit Racing™ 62cc Aluminum Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ 62cc Aluminum Cylinder Heads for Small Chevy with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Heads at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I'm sticking with these heads for the time being. I dont want to sell them yet.

 

[Montepit87]

These are the two intakes I currently have. I got the edelbrock for a different project motor and the holley with the heads I got. I could run one of them but I hear that dual planes are better for torque and I dont know which one I'm using quite yet. I might try to trade for a dual plane.

 

[Montepit87]

I got the headliner board out too despite my attempts to do it the right way. I wanted to be cheap and reuse it after recovering it with fabric but that was a no go apparently

 

[Montepit87]

I got some new parts on some good deals. 50 bucks for the mallory and I just couldn't let the intake go so I had to buy it. Decided on the flat taper and I'm buying it next paycheck which will be a minute due to quarantine.

 

[Tony1968]

Good deals 👌

 

[1320John$$$]

View attachment 162903View attachment 162904I got some new parts on some good deals. 50 bucks for the mallory and I just couldn't let the intake go so I had to buy it. Decided on the flat taper and I'm buying it next paycheck which will be a minute due to quarantine.

Make sure all the threaded holes aren’t stripped before you go bolting it onto the motor