At my wits end with this QuadraJet

Discussion in 'Fuel / Air / Boost' started by Rktpwrd, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. pontiacgp

    pontiacgp Canadian Prime Minister

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    Donovan, the Cliff Ruggles book is great and I relied on that book until Mark (Bonnewagon) suggested I get the Doug Roe book. I still use Cliff's book but mostly rely on Roe's book.
     
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  2. 1bad79

    1bad79 G-Body Guru

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    Try it you can always go further
     
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  3. pontiacgp

    pontiacgp Canadian Prime Minister

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    when you are adjusting the idle screw mixture you can use a vacuum gauge to set them

     
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  4. Rktpwrd

    Rktpwrd Royal Smart Person

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    Aaaaaaand done!

    I completed the last of the modifications to the idle circuit tonight, and got the carb reassembled.

    F4D9FF0F-4177-4F15-A7A3-7FECF5C37FCB.jpeg

    It actually all went back together better and a little quicker than I expected.
    With a bit of time left in the evening, I reinstalled it on the car and got everything buttoned back up.

    1BE5D17C-72E0-406C-8FEF-2EF0A25C426B.jpeg

    I wouldn’t have been able to sleep tonight without knowing whether it’d at least fire or not, so despite the late hour I gave it a shot.

    And success! Well, sort of.

    The car will fire and run, but now the tuning work will have to begin. It still stalled on me, but the idle screws will need adjusting along with the idle speed and possibly the choke and timing again. So I still don’t really know just yet at this point whether the modifications were truly successful or not.

    Tomorrow night will be back to basics getting it tuned right and dialed in again.

    Thanks for everyone’s input and help, it was all invaluable and I’m extremely grateful for it. Thank you.

    And you guys thought all I could do was only fabrication, paint and bodywork....
    :p
     
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  5. Canon_Mutant

    Canon_Mutant G-Body Guru

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    OK, did I hallucinate that this will idle properly after you drive it a while? But only upon restart it is again too rich, runs like crap?

    Though I only know the CCC "well", I don't think you need to enlarge the idle bleeds D if you can tell it is too rich already? My big block was too lean to idle without the speed screw in far enough to crack the primaries. Sounds like a lack of air problem at idle or a too much fuel condition in your case.

    Agree on the stoichiometric AFR reader meter gauge if you can get one? Be nice to borrow it since they ain't cheap but not a bad tool to have around.

    Please, before you start to carve it up [and I know how frustratingly they can lead one to do that] start from cold start basics and make sure all 3 conditions are working purr-fectly.

    EDIT: Sorry, logged on too late. Well, hope it works then . . . (y)
     
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  6. Rktpwrd

    Rktpwrd Royal Smart Person

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    No worries Garth.

    No, that wasn’t the problem. To save me an hours worth of typing, go back and reread my first post. It wouldn’t idle, period. The only way it would was if I fooled the carb into running on the PRIMARY circuit, rather than the idle circuit. THEN it ran pig rich, for obvious reasons.

    I do agree however, I think it was running way too lean at idle, causing the stalling issue. Hopefully my modifications have corrected the problem, guess I’ll find out tomorrow night.
     
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  7. Canon_Mutant

    Canon_Mutant G-Body Guru

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    Cool!

    This part is what confused me: Once it does stay running this way, I can drive the car around for hours through start and stop traffic, and it pulls good throughout the rpm range but as soon as I shut it off and go to restart it the cycle starts all over again.

    Fucking English language anyway.
     
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  8. Bonnewagon

    Bonnewagon Geezer

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    Nice work- it looks great. See? At first everyone is intimidated by a Q-jet. But once you dig in and rebuild one several times it gets easy. Then you wonder what all the fear was for. So once the timing is verified start on the carb. A nice trick is to pull out all the plugs and ground the wires. Then have someone crank the motor while you watch the timing light. Now you can set the timing at like 100 rpm and it will not have any advance interfering. When ready, start out at a fast idle and the let it warm up. Then slowly idle down to where you want it. The final adjustment should be while watching the vacuum gauge looking for the most vacuum you can get at a reasonable idle speed. I am confident you will be successful. EDIT: what is that large object above the float bowl on the pass side? That spot is usually used for a high altitude aneroid, the CCC connector, or on some '80's trucks- an idle enrichment solenoid.
     
    #98 Bonnewagon, Jun 13, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
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  9. 1bad79

    1bad79 G-Body Guru

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    I’m off Friday and light duty tomorrow so I’ll keep an eye on this want to know how you come out
     
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  10. Tim & sleek

    Tim & sleek Not-quite-so-new-guy

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    Does it have plastic or brass floats
     
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