Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

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Actually it may be one forward and three back . . . or all 4?

OK, so I openly admit I am indeed becoming that "get off my damn lawn" old fart at only 58 but I think my wheels might be going back. Monday and Tuesday were lost due to high winds and actual work but, though I opened all 4 boxes when I got them to make sure they were what I ordered, I only unboxed and unbagged the one and it appears that first one was the best of the bunch. I got the rest out for the trip to town today and my left over full size spare Cayenne wheel looks quite a bit better than these do. Sent these pics off to AZProPerformance [retailer I used] for their evaluation. I "think" I can polish most of this out with the right polish and technique but, damn, this is what these people do for a living. Or, am I expecting way too much and just being that angry old fart again?

You decide . . . no poll required!

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The lips are pretty much all like this. I'm worried about corrosion over time.

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For what you paid you should be completely satisfied with the wheels. If not, they should make it right. I think I would try to get a partial refund.
 
It is the 12si.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-67297

OK, not from experience of what all I've actually caught [yet] but channel cat, bass, crappie, and one huge carp that is almost tame. It comes up in the shallows to waller and will just sit there and look at you. You get too close it will move over a couple of feet but doesn't seem remotely scared. Thing is about 30" long ~ probably 20-25 lbs easy. And there is at least one huge bass based on dorsal to tail fin distance ~ probably a good 2 footer. Appeared to maybe be spawning in the shallows of one of the two draws that feed the 2 1/2 acre pond.
Cool pond and fish in there. An actual 12si case 150 amp alternator should hold up. I can imagine many road blocks in a project this size. Just adding cruise, 6AL box, a 2004R and 350 in place of the 260 with a cam swap and a few gaskets in plenty for me. I will be flip flopping the exhaust in July and maybe putting a for sale sign on the 88.
 
Initial response was "that is the way polished are going to look". NOT!

Look, you can do an appropriate 2 stage polish, or you can half-*ss it and ship it because they were running behind.

Though I could probably get them looking right myself, I got a local guy that has worked wonders on several of my Euro-SUV wheels over the years that can make them right for $75/wheel so I sent an ultimatum to US Mags that they can either pay 2 way shipping plus the cost of polishing these correctly OR refund $300 and I'll get it done here? Should have made it $350 for the trip to town but oh well . . .
Place your bets . . . place your bets! :wax:

I have bought refurbished wheels that look better close up than these do. True, these do look great from 5-6 ft away. Our standard for sheet metal with data storage products in my 32 years was 3 ft for just plated sheet metal, 1 ft for anything finished. I start seeing these scratches at about 4 ft on in . . .

The rest of my rear end parts that were supposed to be here Tuesday showed up today . . . now have everything for the rebuild.
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That really sucks the quality of those high priced wheels have issues! I'd be really pissed if in your boat too, spend that kinda money, they better be spot on.

Hell, the new wheels I bought last year were only $190/each, and are flawless, even up close! I hope they do you right, and look forward to seeing them with rubber mounted and bolted on.
 
I went ahead and splurged . . . [for applying the gold 442 tape stripe to the new wheels]

http://store.tapeworks.com/stripe-it-all.aspx

My eyes ain't what they used to be [like everything else it seems] so the tool should come in handy.
 
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Well, I cut the cover piece for my power shelf and there is not enough material above the sub breather hole to have just the one center latch. Frankly, I should have noticed that in the CAD model but didn't. Anyway, I have moved to 2 evenly spaced latches but they will hold the cover more securely anyway. And, the right battery holder frames showed up today so I might get some assembly done this weekend. In hindsight, I really didn't have to I guess, but I decided to finish the power shelf first before I finish putting the interior back together just in case it causes me to re-route anything . . . although I admit that PITA headliner has slowed interior progress up dramatically by itself. I also may NOT put dynomat above the headliner because the adhesive is only rated to 40C/104F so there is a risk it could come loose over time. That roof gets toastier than that. I have asked Dynomat for clarification on this though. The ABS headliner "should" still hold it in place but I didn't want to risk doing this headliner twice like it seems I do EVERY OTHER THING I TOUCH! Not that I am bitter . . .

signed, do it twice Garth

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Had a local friend suggest that this abs cover may muffle the reflective sound from the subwoofer. The sound will project backwards through the hole in the cover, disperse, reflect, and get muffled on the rebound by the cover. He suggested I do the shelf only [no cover]. Any of you audio experts know if this might be true? I guess I can always just take it off if this ends up being true?
 
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So, I've had the axles for 2 weeks and the rest for a week except for the 1350 pinion yoke which FINALLY came from Strange just today along with the driveshaft that I obviously don't need yet. Um, the caps and bolts for the yoke are extra? Seriously?

Hopefully, this will all go to town tomorrow along with my housing for the rebuild . . . but since the rear end rebuild was holding everything else up, at least things should "start" progressing again.

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EDIT: BTW, gotta love those beefy U-joints
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And, Dynamat responded and their Extreme is spec'd to 300F, not 104, so it is going on my roof. So, my inability to get that ABS headliner up by myself so far apparently had a purpose. I was supposed to put Dynamat up there and didn't even know it.

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