Cam break in oil ?
- Thread starter Doug213xrj
- Start date
- Status
I stopped using any oil produced from Pennsylvania crude about 30 years ago. I worked as a mechanic at the time and every engine I opened up I knew immediately if Pa. based oil was in it. The engine would have a large build up of waxy sludge in it. Most all refineries have closed in Pa. since and I do not know if there is any Pa. based oil on the market at this point. Many folks back then ran Quaker State or Pennzoil only around here since it was produced in the area. The wax build up only became a factor as the engine aged but I had cases then where the sludge would clog the drain back ports in the heads and the oil would build up and get into the cylinders via the valves. I think a lot of engines got changed or rebuilt back then that could have lived on if it would have had the sludge cleaned out and the drain ports cleaned on the top end.
I am now in my 60s but still do some tinkering and still use STP liberally when putting engines together. I also make a primer tool to turn the engine oil pump via the distributor port with an electric drill and push new oil thru the system to avoid a dry start. There are assembly lubes available but I still use the old school method without a start up failure ever.
Good Suggestions so far and you can't go wrong with any High ZDDP content break oil suggested (Driven, Brad Penn, Comp Cams). I would only use an additive after break in. Personally I'd rather just buy oil that is compatible with Flat Tappet cams like Amsoil Z-Rod or VR1. It's definitely tougher today than every before to find good oil for old cars at your local autoparts store but it's easier than ever to order the right stuff.
I use the Amsoil Break in Oil:
www.amsoil.com
There's also the Lucas Break in Oil as well.
www.summitracing.com
I think it's the most cost effective product on the market.
Another option if you don't want to mail order is go down to your local Autozone and buy Valvoline VR1
CutlassEFI over on R.O.P. claims he uses it for break in and Dyno pulls! He's a highly respected Olds engine builder in the High-Po Olds community. I'm not an Amsoil Shill, but I choose them over others because it's obviously a top tier product and they ship to my house faster than anyone else. I also am part of their loyalty program so I get free shipping and a discount that equates to the same price or less as buying Mobil 1 at the local autoparts store.
I use the Amsoil Break in Oil:
Break-In Oil (SAE 30)
Shop Break-In Oil (SAE 30) at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.
www.amsoil.com
There's also the Lucas Break in Oil as well.
Lucas Oil 10631 Lucas Engine Break-In Oil | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Lucas Engine Break-In Oil with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Engine Oil at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
Another option if you don't want to mail order is go down to your local Autozone and buy Valvoline VR1
VR1 Racing High Performance High Zinc Motor Oil - Valvoline™ Global
From drag strips to paved and dirt ovals, racing performance demands race-level protection. Which is why motorsport teams and enthusiasts depend on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil, America’s #1 racing oil. Our exclusive high zinc and phosphorus formula is engineered specifically for modern...
www.valvoline.com
CutlassEFI over on R.O.P. claims he uses it for break in and Dyno pulls! He's a highly respected Olds engine builder in the High-Po Olds community. I'm not an Amsoil Shill, but I choose them over others because it's obviously a top tier product and they ship to my house faster than anyone else. I also am part of their loyalty program so I get free shipping and a discount that equates to the same price or less as buying Mobil 1 at the local autoparts store.
- Status
Similar threads
