Chevy 400 Build

[565bbchevy]

Am I required to use a windage tray? I didn't even know they existed til I googled it. Im still trying to decide whether to use ARP Studs or Bolts? Whats the pro and cons of using them

If it is just a street engine then you do not need a windage tray. But since you need main fasteners anyways I would still go with the studs. They put less wear on the threads in your block and they have more accurate torque readings since there is less friction because only the nut turns on the washer when tightening vs a bolt threading into the block and the head of the bolt also turning on a washer at the same time. I think I explained that right.

 

[LilSpann601]

Damn I just ordered the arp main bolts. I hope they will do. Now im trying to decide on which rods and pistons for my vortec heads. Also which cam should I start looking into...whats a good cam where i wont have to cut valve guides or modify the heads...i want it to lope a little and i still wanna run A/C

Is it necessary for me to use plasti-gage if everything in my block is new?

 

[565bbchevy]

Damn I just ordered the arp main bolts. I hope they will do. Now im trying to decide on which rods and pistons for my vortec heads. Also which cam should I start looking into...whats a good cam where i wont have to cut valve guides or modify the heads...i want it to lope a little and i still wanna run A/C

They will be fine because you ordered ARP.

 

[chevy2480]

Am I required to use a windage tray? I didn't even know they existed til I googled it. Im still trying to decide whether to use ARP Studs or Bolts? Whats the pro and cons of using them

If it is just a street engine then you do not need a windage tray. But since you need main fasteners anyways I would still go with the studs. They put less wear on the threads in your block and they have more accurate torque readings since there is less friction because only the nut turns on the washer when tightening vs a bolt threading into the block and the head of the bolt also turning on a washer at the same time. I think I explained that right.

If you where to go with the main studs you would want to have your block line honed. Its a must with studs due to the true clamping force it destorts the main bores. Bolts will stretch where the studs barely do Ask any engine builder that know what they are talking about. You are better off with the arp bolts you already ordered. Even with them they suggest checking the line bore because they also stretch less then factor bolts. I have used the arp bolts in the past with no issues. That being said stay with what you ordered

 

[CHRIS.O]

Now im trying to decide on which rods and pistons for my vortec heads. Also which cam should I start looking into...whats a good cam where i wont have to cut valve guides or modify the heads...i want it to lope a little and i still wanna run A/C

Is it necessary for me to use plasti-gage if everything in my block is new?

Now is the time to be entirely honest with yourself in what you want. Your lift will have to stay under .470 if you don't modify the heads. Your only other option is to purchase a beehive valve spring from comp cams that allows you to run a much higher lift cam. Google this or write comp cams a letter and explain what heads your using. They can set you up with that spring that require NO machining. If you have to buy new valve springs anyway you might as well do that. Honestly with a lift under .470 your probably barely gonna be knocking on the 400hp door. This isn't really a bad thing because most of those cams make great flat torque curves but I believe you would be upset with the result since you said you wanna run with modded ls1 cars. You need to pick an entire combination for the cam, rear end gear ratio, stall speed, headers, carb, intake, etc. Theres no one out there better suited to select a cam for you then the manufacturers themselves.

 

[DRIVEN]

You need to pick an entire combination for the cam, rear end gear ratio, stall speed, headers, carb, intake, etc. Theres no one out there better suited to select a cam for you then the manufacturers themselves.

^^This^^

 

[gbondo57]

Okay lilspan, I may be new to the page, but I built a 377 21 years ago. In a 67 nova I broke the spring perch welds, and spun a water pump off. I built it becaaause, in 79 a Hot Rod article, about GWC racing, they made 500 hp at 5500 rpm. Follow this, 350 crank,(steel?!) flat tops with 5.7 rods. you can buy the pistons off the shelf. Flat top is likely all. Because of the mix, it should be balanced. If you have the head chambers radiused and polished, pump gas will be fine. He's rite about the steam holes, you'll need 400 head gaskets.The heads look great. When building the engine, check the head gasket on the head, making sure the bead doesn't roll into the chamber. When you shop for the cam, watch the rpm range, (power band). I suggest 1.6 ratio rocker arms. Stock is 1.5, get roller tips at least. Roller tips reduce drag, and valve guides last longer. This (1.6) will get a little more low end torque. As for destroke, the smaller the crank circle, the faster it spins UP. You still got 377 ci. The cam I used, was just into the solid lifter range. A trans guy told me, a stock 350 torque conv for a 6 cyl has a 1200 stall speed. I want to build another one now?! Later Dude 🙁

 

[LilSpann601]

Now im trying to decide on which rods and pistons for my vortec heads. Also which cam should I start looking into...whats a good cam where i wont have to cut valve guides or modify the heads...i want it to lope a little and i still wanna run A/C

Is it necessary for me to use plasti-gage if everything in my block is new?

Now is the time to be entirely honest with yourself in what you want. Your lift will have to stay under .470 if you don't modify the heads. Your only other option is to purchase a beehive valve spring from comp cams that allows you to run a much higher lift cam. Google this or write comp cams a letter and explain what heads your using. They can set you up with that spring that require NO machining. If you have to buy new valve springs anyway you might as well do that. Honestly with a lift under .470 your probably barely gonna be knocking on the 400hp door. This isn't really a bad thing because most of those cams make great flat torque curves but I believe you would be upset with the result since you said you wanna run with modded ls1 cars. You need to pick an entire combination for the cam, rear end gear ratio, stall speed, headers, carb, intake, etc. Theres no one out there better suited to select a cam for you then the manufacturers themselves.

I think im going to try to find me a set of the beehive springs...once they are installed whats the maximum lift?

I guess ill spend sometime trying to google some part numbers

 

[565bbchevy]

Am I required to use a windage tray? I didn't even know they existed til I googled it. Im still trying to decide whether to use ARP Studs or Bolts? Whats the pro and cons of using them

If it is just a street engine then you do not need a windage tray. But since you need main fasteners anyways I would still go with the studs. They put less wear on the threads in your block and they have more accurate torque readings since there is less friction because only the nut turns on the washer when tightening vs a bolt threading into the block and the head of the bolt also turning on a washer at the same time. I think I explained that right.

If you where to go with the main studs you would want to have your block line honed. Its a must with studs due to the true clamping force it destorts the main bores. Bolts will stretch where the studs barely do Ask any engine builder that know what they are talking about. You are better off with the arp bolts you already ordered. Even with them they suggest checking the line bore because they also stretch less then factor bolts. I have used the arp bolts in the past with no issues. That being said stay with what you ordered

I agree but I was not suggesting he take his stock shortblock and remove his factory bolts and put in studs. He has a bare block and is replacing the rotating etc, so there will be alot of machine work required to have a durable shortblock which line honing should be one of the proceedures with an unknown bare block, it's going to have to honed and probably decked anyways.

 

[CHRIS.O]

Heres some info about the valve springs I mentioned. Also you might want to see if you can find info on the flow data for the vortecs. You don't want to buy a cam you cant use. For example, if the heads produce max flow at .480 lift then buying a cam with a lift of .550 would net you nothing.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/vo ... index.html