MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

[motorheadmike]

The brackets are recycled junk: the throttle cable is using a stock DBC truck unit, and the TV cable is hanging on part of a slightly modified TPI bracket.

The throttle cable install was breeze. Practically a bolt-in after I snipped the stock pedal clip off and slid it over the new cable. I still need to crimp the adjuster to the sheath.

Oh, if you do end up using the same unit: wait to pull off the tape on the open/cut braid until you slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the end so you can pull it back over the frayed end for a good seal.

 

[liquidh8]

Alot of individuals never do the math to get the angle correct for the TV cable, thinking its a "kick-down" hope yours works as you are figuring!

 

[motorheadmike]

Alot of individuals never do the math to get the angle correct for the TV cable, thinking its a "kick-down" hope yours works as you are figuring!

You couldn't be more right - I never had a clue when this was last installed that I hadn't optimized the angles or throw (and that bolt-on correction brackets existed). Amazingly it never burned up.

This is a cool resource: http://www.extremeautomatics.com/assets/pdf/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf

Other references:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ls-swap-throttle-cable-and-tv-kickdown-question.305512/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/65138-adjusting-tv-cable/
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-adjust-a-throttle-valve-cable-by-spencer-clayton
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/700r4 cable adjustment instructions.pdf
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/
For carby guys: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0312-th200-4r-overdrive-gear/

Spendy solution: http://www.tvmadeez.com/ls1_cam/


What not to do:

 

[64nailhead]

I'm using the same throttle body and my homemade bracket was alot uglier than yours. But I hva the geometry correct. I tracked down the correct amount if trave on a factory TPI by throttle position to determine the correct distance for the TV cable from the pivot point.I'm using a factory TPI bracket mounted onto the side of the Holley elbow. It was one of those 'function over form' portions of the build lol.

 

[motorheadmike]

This is my 3rd AEM Dry Flow filter. I have them on the TBSS and the Mrs.' Colorado. They don't use oil or wire mesh, and have an internal cage to prevent collapse (really important for boosted applications).

Pop can for scale.

I really need to get back on this project.. damn wagon getting in the way.

 

[Texas82GP]

We like the wagon.

 

[motorheadmike]

Just another idea I have been farting around with.

4 Bar MAP:
https://www.newark.com/honeywell/ab...-sensor-4bar-axial-barbed/dp/52Y1374?st=4 bar

Pressure differential sensor between the intake and exhaust sides:
https://www.newark.com/honeywell/nscsrrn004bgunv/pressure-sensor-0-to-4bar-dual/dp/56T3546?st=4 bar

Things are just $12 - and I have to imagine this, or something similar, is what's going into most aftermarket ECMs.

 

[fleming442]

I'm listening....... go on. Could these be used as inputs to the ECM? Or, would you use the average of the 2 for some sort of correction factor?

Airplane parts are cool. When I designed my EFI-ready fuel system on the red car, I incorporated an over pressure sensor into the regulator since I'm still carbed at the moment. It's a Honeywell 10psi normally closed; if the regulator fails and the sensor sees a spike over 10psi, it will kill the pump relay to avoid flooding the floats. I also put a Ford inertia sensor inline (same thing Ron Francis sells) for impact safety. The problem is: it will trip if I bang 2nd too hard or if a passenger shuts the door too hard. Luckily, I put it within my reach from the driver's seat. My daughter also likes to "push the button" (It's under the ashtray beneath the quarter window).

 

[motorheadmike]

I'm listening....... go on. Could these be used as inputs to the ECM? Or, would you use the average of the 2 for some sort of correction factor?

Airplane parts are cool. When I designed my EFI-ready fuel system on the red car, I incorporated an over pressure sensor into the regulator since I'm still carbed at the moment. It's a Honeywell 10psi normally closed; if the regulator fails and the sensor sees a spike over 10psi, it will kill the pump relay to avoid flooding the floats. I also put a Ford inertia sensor inline (same thing Ron Francis sells) for impact safety. The problem is: it will trip if I bang 2nd too hard or if a passenger shuts the door too hard. Luckily, I put it within my reach from the driver's seat. My daughter also likes to "push the button" (It's under the ashtray beneath the quarter window).

Yes, and yes. The options are pretty endless. A cheap 4 Bar MAP would be a welcome change, and a simple addition to HP Tuners - problem there is that the Operating Systems they offer are usually quite limited to around 3 Bar (and running 4 Bar of boost seems wasteful to me, unless you like all of that restriction) - but having a measurement tool with enough range is nice. The measuring of pressure differentials would be advantageous to ensuring an ability to log and tune flow rates - because as we all know the turbo can become a choke point as it works against itself at higher speeds. Tuning could be achieved by setting up and Arduino controlling a solenoid to bleed-off pressure if the pressure ratios are poor or the flow rates drop.

Arduinos are something I want to start working with - should be able to make it a father-daugther project.

 

[motorheadmike]

For the battery relocation and cut-off switch install.