MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

[liquidh8]

Did a thing today. Took some time to install the UMI LCA relocation brackets on the 8.5". I made a mock control arm to ensure that the arm sweep was accurate - it also helped to triangulate the brackets. That being said UMI failed horribly in their design. The hole which bolts to the stock ears is way too large, it measures out to about 1/2" when it needs to be 10mm - what this does is introduces a lot of slop into locating the brackets making accurate alignment damn near impossible. What I did to overcome this was cut some bushings that made up the difference and helped centre everything up. I was not impressed. Set the pinion angle to 0*, set the LCA brackets to 0*, tack, weld, repeat, paint, done.

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View attachment 75768

I'd imagine those holes are 1/2" because alot of the aftermarket bushings are 1/2". Meeting the poly bushings and suck on the tubular arms.

At least your making progress.

 

[motorheadmike]

I'd imagine those holes are 1/2" because alot of the aftermarket bushings are 1/2". Meeting the poly bushings and suck on the tubular arms.

At least your making progress.

I am talking about the upper most hole. So unless the expectation is that you would have previously drilled out the ears before buying these brackets then maybe... However! Why do they include 7/16" bolts and 7/16" sleeves? It doesn't register. 10mm holes, bolts, and sleeves would make way more sense.

Or send 1/2" parts and tell me to drill the ears out. Meh - its done. For those reading at home buy the bolt-in versions.

 

[motorheadmike]

Out with the old and off to scrap.

 

[motorheadmike]

Polishing a turd.

Pulled Quagmire out and stripped him down, knocked off the loose rust, rubbed him down with a wire brush, hosed him down with brake cleaner, and shined him up with a little clearcoat.

Now it just looks just like a steaming pile.

Next I'll pop the heads off and clean up the decks, pull out its guts, chase the threads, and start getting the new (and used) internals together.

 

[pagrunt]

Giggity-giggity

 

[motorheadmike]

Went to the junk bin and pulled out the 8.5" posi w/4.56s, aluminum drums, boxed control arms (LCAs are poly-u), 4" aluminum driveshaft, and UMI drag bar (I'll save my griping). I should rename this thing "leftovers"...

I also deleted the factory pinion snubber (aka. b*tch button) to save some weight. In reality I figure I added in as much weight as I took out with this round of mods... not ideal - but definitely moving in the right direction (at a minimum I am freeing up floor/shelf space).

 

[liquidh8]

Went to the junk bin and pulled out the 8.5" posi w/4.56s, aluminum drums, boxed control arms (LCAs are poly-u), 4" aluminum driveshaft, and UMI drag bar (I'll save my griping). I should rename this thing "leftovers"...

I also deleted the factory pinion snubber (aka. b*tch button) to save some weight. In reality I figure I added in as much weight as I took out with this round of mods... not ideal - but definitely moving in the right direction (at a minimum I am freeing up floor/shelf space).

View attachment 76539

That aluminum shaft is nice.

 

[motorheadmike]

That aluminum shaft is nice.

Yeah it is pretty good for a factory part. Obnoxiously large - I had to pull the factory driveshaft safety strap to make room for it... and I am going to need to build another loop from scratch.

I still need to change out the rear u-joint as it comes with these from the factory: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p46...universal_joint_3r_series_non_greaseable.html and are not really designed for big power.

I probably have one of these floating around that I can put in the rear position later: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2154_spicer_5_3147x_3r_series_u_joint._greaseable.html

When I changed the slip yoke I used one of these: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p20...x_combination_u_joint_to_connect_outside.html which is much beefier. The funny thing is that the one I used had to be about 15 years old (been on the shelf forever) - so you know it isn't a piece of off-shore crap. USA! USA! USA!

 

[Griffin84ss]

These: http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/gta-mesh-wheel-set-of-4-17-x-9-black-reproduction/

Got them for $680 shipped from a dude who changed his mind. Probably going to widen them to 11 or 12 inches in the back.

Motorheadmike. May i ask how you go about widen the rims or a rim? Thanks

 

[motorheadmike]

Motorheadmike. May i ask how you go about widen the rims or a rim? Thanks

I used WeldCraft for the wheels on the wagon. http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/what-we-do/widen/