Door hinge repair

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You think a used one would still be better than a brand New?
 

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The holes for the hinges on my Regal were all wallered out, so I welded up the holes and redrilled them to the correct size for the bushings. Then adjusted the door accordingly. Seems to be working well, my doors open and close very nicely.
 
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I have, in the past, welded them up if they were really bad, and redrilled. I just prefer to repair parts that I know fit than go repro if possible. Added perk is no painting required.

I do understand that not everyone would be able to undertake a task like this, but it isn't terribly complex or hard. Shoot, accessing and disconnecting the door harnesses is the worst part.

Done so many of them, used to do the 88/98 C/K trucks in about 25 minutes.
 
You think a used one would still be better than a brand New?

Yes, even if you had to put a pin and new bushings in it. I find MOST repro/aftermarket parts to be less than OE quality or fitment. Not all, but most.
 
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I have, in the past, welded them up if they were really bad, and redrilled. I just prefer to repair parts that I know fit than go repro if possible. Added perk is no painting required.

I do understand that not everyone would be able to undertake a task like this, but it isn't terribly complex or hard. Shoot, accessing and disconnecting the door harnesses is the worst part.

Done so many of them, used to do the 88/98 C/K trucks in about 25 minutes.
Oh damn. Forgot all about the harness. Hate to take that panel off... with my luck it rigged to fit....ive read on other pages that the fender has to come off to?
 
No need to remove door panel. Remove kick panel, insulation pad behind it, might have to unbolt park brake assembly. The doors have connectors in the jamb, inside the hinge pillar or rubber bellows, that can be disconnected to remove door.

I usually tape up the front edge of the door and rear of fender with cloth (gaff) tape (or about 4-5 layers of masking tape) to protect against damage. If you can manage to get the pins out with hinges still bolted to door and pillar, shouldn't require realignment, as it will be in original location. Later GM stuff is done this way since many hinges are no longer bolted on, but rather welded to the door and pillar.
 
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No need to remove door panel. Remove kick panel, insulation pad behind it, might have to unbolt park brake assembly. The doors have connectors in the jamb, inside the hinge pillar or rubber bellows, that can be disconnected to remove door.

I usually tape up the front edge of the door and rear of fender with cloth (gaff) tape (or about 4-5 layers of masking tape) to protect against damage. If you can manage to get the pins out with hinges still bolted to door and pillar, shouldn't require realignment, as it will be in original location. Later GM stuff is done this way since many hinges are no longer bolted on, but rather welded to the door and pillar.
Man....this car is testing my patience 😐one thing after another
 
4 door hinges are the same. I used them on my Elco. In my experience in body shops, if your door is sagging that bad, all this time. You have damage to the door also. Even a hinge replacement won't completely solve the problem.
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4 door hinges are the same. I used them on my Elco. In my experience in body shops, if your door is sagging that bad, all this time. You have damage to the door also. Even a hinge replacement won't completely solve the problem.
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Get used 4 door hinges. I wouldn't trust aftermarket. You don't have to take the door off. Do 1 at a time supported on a jack with someone holding the door steady . Remove the upper spring 1st thing and reinstall it last
 
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