I am more than happy with the SBC 355 roller vortec with a 5 speed stick in my GP. It has around 400 hp so it sure aint the fastest out there but for a daily driver it sure is a blast to drive and gas mileage is respectable.
MONTE CARLO Engine Advice: 450-500 whp (Stock Hood)
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That is the only "LS" motor I would toss an Olds V8 aside for. I haven't drove the 6.2 version but the 100 hp less 5.3 in a heavy 4×4 was very impressive and good on fuel too.
If you guys remember, I swapped the Olds 403 for the 6.2 in my 442. More power and better fuel economy but since I pieced mine together it likely doesn't meet California emission standards. I haven't had a chance to check MPG with mild driving but I'm guessing it's somewhere in the 14-18 MPG range.
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Thanks for all of the feedback. As far as why I'd want so much power, I do plan on driving it on the street, but I'd also like to race the car a bit. The regular 1320 races are pretty popular here, but rolling races are super fun as well. I'd like something that has a punch if I'm rolling at say 40 or 50 mph. I have a daily car that is gas efficient, and pretty slow, so I kind of want to work on something in the other spectrum 
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Most of the twin-screw blowers for the LS car applications basically replace the stock manifold, and are pretty low-profile. You shouldn’t have any issues height-wise.
Gen-V LT1 is tempting, but I’m probably going to go with the tried-and-true LS3 E-Rod for mine. One of my concerns with the Gen-V engines is carbon buildup on the back of the valves, since they’re DI. You could get a catch can if that’s a concern.
Also, I do know of some instances where guys swapped a truck LS into a car in California, and got it approved, but it’s not a slam-dunk. Swapping a truck engine into a car is generally frowned upon, but it can be done if you have all of the emissions equipment and a reasonable ref approving the install.
Gen-V LT1 is tempting, but I’m probably going to go with the tried-and-true LS3 E-Rod for mine. One of my concerns with the Gen-V engines is carbon buildup on the back of the valves, since they’re DI. You could get a catch can if that’s a concern.
Also, I do know of some instances where guys swapped a truck LS into a car in California, and got it approved, but it’s not a slam-dunk. Swapping a truck engine into a car is generally frowned upon, but it can be done if you have all of the emissions equipment and a reasonable ref approving the install.
Early DI designs from BMW and Audi were horrible. Go figure, another German design that sucks. Carbon buildup on the back side of the valves causes cold start issues. The only OEM approved solution has been to remove the cylinder heads and walnut blast them. There is still a lot of speculation about this but from what I understand, GM and Ford have improved the condition to where it is not a concern. My brother is running a Ford Fusion with high mileage and has not had issues. I've read that the key to prevention is using clean, synthetic oil and frequent changes. Some guys add catch cans but I don't think it's necessary.
That's what this guy was saying; it's an additive in dino oil causing the deposits. Apparently, synthetic oils don't have or need whatever it is (I forget- caicium-something-or-other).
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