MONTE CARLO Engine Advice: 450-500 whp (Stock Hood)

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Here you go. 455HP, a smooth idle, reasonable fuel mileage, and legal in California. Chevrolet performance E rod package. I know it breaks your $6,500 budget but you can thank the liberal tree hugger's and the people of your state that voted for for them. Turbo LS would be the most cost effective.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIpqOwoYDI3wIVEtbACh2tfgB1EAQYAiABEgKCqvD_BwE


Chevrolet LT1 6.2L E-Rod long block crate engine specs and features include:

* Cast aluminum with 6-bolt nodular iron main bearing caps
* Direct-injection, spark-ignition Gen-V small block V8
* Horsepower: 455 at 6,000 rpm
* Torque: 465 lbs.-ft. at 4,600 rpm
* Crankshaft: Forged steel
* Connecting rods: Forged powdered metal
* Pistons: Eutectic
* Camshaft type: Billet steel roller
* Valve lift (in.): .561 intake/.531 exhaust
* Camshaft duration (at 0.050 in.): 200 degrees intake/212 degrees exhaust
* Cylinder heads: Aluminum, rectangular port D/I
* Valve size (in.): 2.13 intake/1.59 exhaust
* Compression ratio: 11.5:1
* Rocker arms: Investment-cast, roller trunnion
* Rocker arm ratio: 1.81:1
* Recommended fuel: Premium pump
* Maximum recommended rpm: 6600
* Reluctor wheel: 58X
* Balanced: Internal
* Engine control module
* Exhaust manifolds
* Catalytic converters
* Mass airflow sensor and sensor boss
* Oxygen sensors and sensor bosses
* Air filter
* Accelerator pedal
* Evaporative emissions canister
* Instruction manual

View attachment 102367
That is the only "LS" motor I would toss an Olds V8 aside for. I haven't drove the 6.2 version but the 100 hp less 5.3 in a heavy 4×4 was very impressive and good on fuel too.
 
My brother's 6.2 Denali runs great. MPG kinda sucks though...if that matters.

That is the only "LS" motor I would toss an Olds V8 aside for. I haven't drove the 6.2 version but the 100 hp less 5.3 in a heavy 4×4 was very impressive and good on fuel too.

If you guys remember, I swapped the Olds 403 for the 6.2 in my 442. More power and better fuel economy but since I pieced mine together it likely doesn't meet California emission standards. I haven't had a chance to check MPG with mild driving but I'm guessing it's somewhere in the 14-18 MPG range.
 
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Thanks for all of the feedback. As far as why I'd want so much power, I do plan on driving it on the street, but I'd also like to race the car a bit. The regular 1320 races are pretty popular here, but rolling races are super fun as well. I'd like something that has a punch if I'm rolling at say 40 or 50 mph. I have a daily car that is gas efficient, and pretty slow, so I kind of want to work on something in the other spectrum 👍.
 
Most of the twin-screw blowers for the LS car applications basically replace the stock manifold, and are pretty low-profile. You shouldn’t have any issues height-wise.

Gen-V LT1 is tempting, but I’m probably going to go with the tried-and-true LS3 E-Rod for mine. One of my concerns with the Gen-V engines is carbon buildup on the back of the valves, since they’re DI. You could get a catch can if that’s a concern.

Also, I do know of some instances where guys swapped a truck LS into a car in California, and got it approved, but it’s not a slam-dunk. Swapping a truck engine into a car is generally frowned upon, but it can be done if you have all of the emissions equipment and a reasonable ref approving the install.
 
Oddly, I just heard someone talking about this the other day....


Early DI designs from BMW and Audi were horrible. Go figure, another German design that sucks. Carbon buildup on the back side of the valves causes cold start issues. The only OEM approved solution has been to remove the cylinder heads and walnut blast them. There is still a lot of speculation about this but from what I understand, GM and Ford have improved the condition to where it is not a concern. My brother is running a Ford Fusion with high mileage and has not had issues. I've read that the key to prevention is using clean, synthetic oil and frequent changes. Some guys add catch cans but I don't think it's necessary.
 
I've read that the key to prevention is using clean, synthetic oil and frequent changes.
That's what this guy was saying; it's an additive in dino oil causing the deposits. Apparently, synthetic oils don't have or need whatever it is (I forget- caicium-something-or-other).
 
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