Finally Doing A Build Thread
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the weather was nice yesterday and today, did a lil blocking today, 2morrow I gotta redo the trunk, I found rust as I was blocking????? wft! idk how that happened, then I gotta finish blocking the drivers side quarter panel and fix the annoying lil stress crack on the pillar...tryna get some progress done but the damn weather wont stay consistent...also made those braces for the front and rear bumpers and shot em with some 3M undercoating
had some scrap tubing laying around, figured I'd make those braces that I've seen a couple people have, pretty simple cept i didnt angle cut mine, just step bit em enough so I could get my socket in to tighten the bolt
body is pretty damn straight to begin with, was sacred when my polyester primer was flaking off along the body line in some spots on the pass side, but I blocked it and it seems like everywhere else it adhered good, maybe I didn't scuff the bodyline good enough
had some scrap tubing laying around, figured I'd make those braces that I've seen a couple people have, pretty simple cept i didnt angle cut mine, just step bit em enough so I could get my socket in to tighten the bolt
body is pretty damn straight to begin with, was sacred when my polyester primer was flaking off along the body line in some spots on the pass side, but I blocked it and it seems like everywhere else it adhered good, maybe I didn't scuff the bodyline good enough
anybody else have problems with a stress crack that forms at the end of the drip rail on the B pillar? how do i fix this? it's really annoying. it's on both sides. the drivers side has what appears to be lead or some kind of body solder as it is soft metal about 3 inches of it below the roof to quarter panel seam, the pass side does not have that solder tho.
...also, what would prevent stress in this area? like the rear seat bracing will that help any? I know my car rides rough right now as I need my whole front end rebuilt which I'm getting too but even before I started the bodywork i noticed these cracks, just googled some info and even the guys on the 3rd gen Fbody forum have this problem 🙁
...also, what would prevent stress in this area? like the rear seat bracing will that help any? I know my car rides rough right now as I need my whole front end rebuilt which I'm getting too but even before I started the bodywork i noticed these cracks, just googled some info and even the guys on the 3rd gen Fbody forum have this problem 🙁
Yes, the rear seat braces will help keep the body from flexing.
I put a set in my 442 and noticed a reduction in squeeks and rattles too.
New body bushings are an excellent idea as well.
I put a set in my 442 and noticed a reduction in squeeks and rattles too.
New body bushings are an excellent idea as well.
UPDATE! well I haven't updated in awhile, it's in 2K urethane primer now, still got issues wit the trunk and drivers side door area...the trunk is a bee-otch, can't seem to get it straight, it's like my 4th time tryin 😳 and I included some pics of the stress crack on my pillar, don't know what I"m gonna do here 😢 need some advice from you guys...after i get those fixed, I got parts of it blocked with 180, then I'm gonna shoot another 2 wet coats of 2K then final block with 400 and then it's ready for paint! GM Frost Beige, original color
most of that is thin, just leveling out this way *ss trunk! high spots everywhere! seems like they won't go away...using a 1x4 with 80 grit working one side at a time, it's working better than the blocks I bought that got a lil flex to em...
so I had a layer of all metal, then fiberglass bondo, then a skim coat of rage gold filler. the stress "hairline" crack was showin thru all that...how do I got about fixing this???? i see the roof skin is whats wanting to separate at the end of the drip rail
right next to the bigger "gold nugget" which I assume is some kind of braze...there is lead or body solder
i was thinking just drilling these holes and then throwing some a couple welds to make the roof skin and inner skin one???? idk tho stumped
most of that is thin, just leveling out this way *ss trunk! high spots everywhere! seems like they won't go away...using a 1x4 with 80 grit working one side at a time, it's working better than the blocks I bought that got a lil flex to em...
so I had a layer of all metal, then fiberglass bondo, then a skim coat of rage gold filler. the stress "hairline" crack was showin thru all that...how do I got about fixing this???? i see the roof skin is whats wanting to separate at the end of the drip rail
right next to the bigger "gold nugget" which I assume is some kind of braze...there is lead or body solder
i was thinking just drilling these holes and then throwing some a couple welds to make the roof skin and inner skin one???? idk tho stumped
Glad to see you're making some more progress!
Those trunk lids are hard to work on, and can start acting like an "oil-can", popping in and out making them difficult to get straight.
The best solution is to get the longest, flatest sanding board you can, and use light pressure.
Let the paper do the sanding, not the pressure from your arms.
You don't want the board to be pushing down and distorting the sheet metal. It's tough, but you'll get it.
If the oil-can symptoms are excessive, you may have to shrink the sheet metal in a few areas to tighten it back up.
As for the cracks on the B-pillar, weld that sh*t up as much as you can and give it a good smear of something like All-Metal or Dura-Glass, then cover it with some regular body filler or glaze.
And definately look into picking up a set or making some rear seat braces.
Those trunk lids are hard to work on, and can start acting like an "oil-can", popping in and out making them difficult to get straight.
The best solution is to get the longest, flatest sanding board you can, and use light pressure.
Let the paper do the sanding, not the pressure from your arms.
You don't want the board to be pushing down and distorting the sheet metal. It's tough, but you'll get it.
If the oil-can symptoms are excessive, you may have to shrink the sheet metal in a few areas to tighten it back up.
As for the cracks on the B-pillar, weld that sh*t up as much as you can and give it a good smear of something like All-Metal or Dura-Glass, then cover it with some regular body filler or glaze.
And definately look into picking up a set or making some rear seat braces.
Instead of doing all those little spots all over the lid do a full skim coat of filler. Spot filling like that is making more work for yourself, It will take work forever to get it right (or never). Like Blake said get a long block, I like using a finish cut 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 piece of wood, attach a piece of 80 to it, and let the paper do the work, leave your filler high, as of now your taking way to much off, High build 2k primer is you friend. Working a larger area, will make a big difference....It took me a long time to finally learn that 😳 . Keep up the good work though!
yeah that's my prob, I don't know when to stop sanding. I did skim filler over the whole trunk and used a long 1x4 with 80 grit...got them welded up today. hope this solves that prob, still gotta run the flap disc over em and fill and call it done for this part
After you grind it down, go at it again with the welder to hit any spots that you missed. Repeat until it's 100% solid.
I can see a couple little holes in the pics.
Any holes you leave behind, no matter how tiny, open the potential for moisture to wick up behind the repair, and soak into the filler. That will cause it to expand over time and eventually result in a bulge in your bodywork.
If the headliner/interior is out of your car, and you can access the backside of the repair, give it a good wipe with some seam sealer for added protection.
I can see a couple little holes in the pics.
Any holes you leave behind, no matter how tiny, open the potential for moisture to wick up behind the repair, and soak into the filler. That will cause it to expand over time and eventually result in a bulge in your bodywork.
If the headliner/interior is out of your car, and you can access the backside of the repair, give it a good wipe with some seam sealer for added protection.
Use fiberglass filler over the weld. We were taught in trade school to prime then put the filler on top of the primer to stop rust from forming under filler this was back in 80's.The primer we would use was epoxy primer. I never liked metal in my plastic filler. Remember you can not fill a high spot.
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