I need Options.

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565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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Assuming you have a Buick V6 you need SBC frame mounts, engine mounts, all of the accessories and pulleys, fan set up for SBC a non computer controlled carb and distributor, V8 radiator and shroud, new battery cables
 
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ck80

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I may take you up on that, we'd have to find a way to ship the Engine. But first I will pose a question the group or for those who have done a 350 conversion on these V6 option cars. What all am I going to need IE; Parts to make this conversion happen? off the top of my head I know Headers, Muffler and pipes, possibly a Torque Converter on the Trans. . . . Fill in blank. . . .
Whelp, there's a few answers to that question, and what rabbit hole we jump down depends on what you're doing with the car.

*IF* this is your daily driver, and you're relatively poor right now (we've all been there) then there ARE corners you can cut if you drive gingerly, don't punch the throttle, and just carefully go round town. There's getting it working, and there's doing it right.

For example, your v6 springs aren't going to get it done with v8 weight. BUT, if you avoid potholes, and take speed bumps like an 85 year old at 4mph, you can get by spending that money later.

If you find a 305 from a gbody or lg4 from early 80s firebird/camaro (carbd through 1986) you might look into finding a canadian member who will ship down a v8 ECM and computer side harness from a Canada gbody - they were all sbc, not olds powered in regal/cutlass and should be cheap from ls converts. Then you don't need a new distributor/carb.

If you get a 305/350 from a 1986-down chevy/gmc truck it will already be non-computer so you can just zip tie your ECM harness bits out of the way.

Cheapest transmission solution is a th350 short tail (6"). It doesn't need computer control and is direct fit for your driveshaft and you can reuse the crossmember if you buy new mounts. That solves the bellhousing bolt pattern issue.

Radiator/hoses/etc need updating. Can't recall if your fuel lines with a 229 are on the correct side for a sbc. If not, you're putting in a new line long term on the other frame rail, although in short term you could rig up a braided line along the crossmember to the other side. rubber isn't safe, heck braided there isn't great/ideal but buys a few months.

You can skip a/c for now. I think 229 had condenser fittings on the correct side (opposite buick 231) to where IF your motor had a good compressor/accessories included you could make it work though. Whatever you do, don't create black death by trying to do a cheap 134a convert without a proper purge.

You save money by NOT doing headers/exhaust/etc right now. All you need is a correct y-pipe cheap or free from someone who was going headers/duals. You can put bolts into the emissions pipe fittings on a factory pair of manifolds off a gbody stock sbc that typically also have almost no value. Remember, you can get driving again cheap if you approach your swap from a functional view instead of ideal.
 
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Ribbedroof

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More doors for more wh*res!
I saw that sticker on a late model something last week...was being driven by a female.....she drove like she was in a hurry to get somewhere
 
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ck80

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The coupe come in 2nd place to the wagon enthusiast .... :popcorn:
That’s the harsh reality.
The enthusiast come in the back of the wagon..... err..... nevermind.
 
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Isn't the 3.8 chebby V6 like the 3.8 Buick to 350 Buick, a direct swap? Other than V6 only things like manifolds and distributor, the mounts, fuel hook and accessories all swap over, do they not? The only issue I can see if the trans is a TH200 or depending on how radical he goes, a TH250(C). The latter will last fine behind a 305 or mild 350. As we know, the TH200 sucks and nothing should be done to it, other than removing it.
 
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Neill

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Mar 7, 2014
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Just when I was getting started on the Sanding and Primer on the body (slowly due to weather) Today earlier I had the Malibu towed to Mosteller Auto Repair again. The Engine was idling erratic and seemed to not be getting oil. Checking the dip stick I found a grainy substance. Decided to have the car towed to find the problem I couldn't solve. But the Mechanic did. He said the Barring is about to give. Will need a new engine. I was going to either re-build or replace the motor anyway. But this puts that ahead of everything else I wanted to get done over the summer.

I need options. Mechanic will look into getting me a motor as cheaply as possible either the 229 or 350 which ever is cheapest. I was looking at few 350 Engine video's on Youtube, definitely considering that swap if the motor is cheap enough. There's just the other minor bits that will be needed to get that swap out complete.

So what should I do on a $1000.00 budget,

- Get a Cheap Junkyard Engine direct vin replacement or 350?
- Buy a Rebuild kit if there is one for the K 229 3.8L
- Other

I was wanting to wait for the Engine rebuild/Swap whatever I decided to do later, many more things this car needs. Now I have to jump on rebuilding/swap of the engine earlier than expected as luck would have it. Your feedback here is most appreciated.

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Neill

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Mar 7, 2014
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Roanoke ,VA.
You can sometime find a salvage yard that will install one of their engines, with the trans., if you want, and give you a guarantee long enough to know the job turned out O.K. This could save you lots of aggravation and money because their V8 350 G body donor car is right there with all the parts they need.
 
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81Regal

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Isn't the 3.8 chebby V6 like the 3.8 Buick to 350 Buick, a direct swap? Other than V6 only things like manifolds and distributor, the mounts, fuel hook and accessories all swap over, do they not? The only issue I can see if the trans is a TH200 or depending on how radical he goes, a TH250(C). The latter will last fine behind a 305 or mild 350. As we know, the TH200 sucks and nothing should be done to it, other than removing it.
Not quite, the fuel line is on the same side for chevy 229 but the pump is mounted upside down compared to SBC and the motor mounts are mounted further back in the frame on the 229.
 
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scoti

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Sep 5, 2019
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A 6cyl to V8 swap will eat up a lot of a 1K budget.

Is that 1K for everything? Just for the motor? Just for the labor?
How quickly do you need it turned around & driveable?
Before the bearing failure, how did the car run/what was the state of mechanical reliability?
 
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