No rubber boot on this alt. I contacted the company about the bolt/lever issue. Just waiting until tomorrow for a reply. @olds307, what do you mean reclock? I have to do something to the alt now for being in a new position?
Split the alternator in half, move the stud to a better position. I added longer bolts and used nuts as spacers to run the longer closed impeller A/C water pump with non A/C passenger side alt brackets. I have to move it out 1.5 grooves out to work properly.
Ive never clocked or adjusted the alternator. All i know is that the power post will hit the valve cover as of right now. I will wait and see what happens when i shim the alternator. Might be maybe an inch away from the valve cover after i shim it. By the looks of that dirty plug, i wonder if thats why the voltage needle kept jumping because of bad connection....i bought a new plug. This car is always making it tough on me 😂😂
Ive never clocked or adjusted the alternator. All i know is that the power post will hit the valve cover as of right now. I will wait and see what happens when i shim the alternator. Might be maybe an inch away from the valve cover after i shim it. By the looks of that dirty plug, i wonder if thats why the voltage needle kept jumping because of bad connection....i bought a new plug. This car is always making it tough on me 😂😂
As you can see, reclocking is easy as long as the brushes stay in place. One thing that bothers me is all these replacement alternators are based on the 10si cases. He swapped a better cooling 12si alternator for a 10SI case with a 12si fan. Like a 850 Holley and RPM intake dumping fuel in and exiting through crappy exhaust manifolds, crossover and single exhaust on your 403. I have burnt out a few of those high amp 10si chrome alternators, just not designed to handle more than 80 amps.
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