Junkyard Vortec

[lilbowtie]

No problem.

 

[gbodytoys]

You're absolutely right. People nowadays are so quick to dispose of a vehicle that might need a little work. However, with the ever rising cost of new vehicles, most people would rethink their decision. I suppose it depends on their economic situation.

It's the lack of knowledge of how to make it work and the labor rates to pay someone else to do it. Most non-rural American's outsource something...I'm sure there are some people out there wondering why people buy clothes from the store.

In some cases, it's just easier to get another car. Time also plays a part. If you need to get to work the next day...you might not have a week to spend trying to figure out how to repair a drive train.

 

[Bar50]

Run the crank, just deburr it like you said. The reason I listed the springs and retainers is that theyear around $55-60 for each. That is pretty decent prices and a know combo, I didn't make it up, just used it quite a few times.

As for over-revving, I would think that is a stout task with factory fuel injection and timing control in place.

It's kind a sad that lots of people just toss stuff, but, we live in a disposable world nowadays

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

I don't think they used the 062 on truck engines, the 906 vortec heads had harden valve seats and were used on the trucks

My vortec heads came from an Astro Van (2000 I think) and it has 906 casting numbers.

This was basically my plan. I haven't decided on a cam yet but I had planned on using the LS or Beehive Valve springs to keep from having to do a lot of expensive machine work for valve springs.

I'm running the Comp Camps BeeHive springs in my Vortec build. PM me if you've got questions, I spent a lot of time obsessing over my Vortec build lol.

 

[1evilregal]

If, for the sake of conversation, the head gasket or the cylinder head were to leak water into the cylinder, fluid as we know it for the most part is incompressible, so the valve could not move open and the push rod failed.

this made me think: better check to make sure it didn't bend the connecting rod if this is what happened.....

 

[64nailhead]

this made me think: better check to make sure it didn't bend the connecting rod if this is what happened.....

X2. The easiest way to check for a bent connecting rod is to check piston heights prior to disassembly. This also will confirm if the block is square (same piston ht on all 4 corners.) Also take a hard look at the block in the area where the damaged counter weight is near. I would assume it will look similarly to the crank. Also inspect the oil pump pickup closely (assuming you're going to put in a new oil pump.

I'm thinking you won't find anything that is an issue, but you should check.

Good luck - Jim

 

[Opie Knievel]

this made me think: better check to make sure it didn't bend the connecting rod if this is what happened.....

X2. The easiest way to check for a bent connecting rod is to check piston heights prior to disassembly. This also will confirm if the block is square (same piston ht on all 4 corners.) Also take a hard look at the block in the area where the damaged counter weight is near. I would assume it will look similarly to the crank. Also inspect the oil pump pickup closely (assuming you're going to put in a new oil pump.

I'm thinking you won't find anything that is an issue, but you should check.

Good luck - Jim

Good suggestions guys. I'm definitely gonna give it a thorough checking out when I get it home.

 

[pontiacgp]

I don't think that cylinder hydrolocked, it looks like that engine came with all the plugs so there would be indication of water sitting in the cylinder and if water seeped past the rings the oil would be mixed with water......but no harm checking the height of the piston travel to make sure the rod is not bent...

 

[Bar50]

What did you find out on the engine?

 

[Opie Knievel]

What did you find out on the engine?

It's still sitting on an engine stand in the garage at work. I haven't had any time for car stuff lately.