Kevlar v belts

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Go to a tractor or farm equipment store and find the correct length belt. It's stupid, but none of the sits (Jegs, summit, etc) or auto stores carry non ribbed belts. If your pulleys are marginally straight, you'll never throw a belt again with a smooth vbelt. I went through 5 cogged belts before I said screw it went to a farm supply store and got a smooth belt. Any place that sells/fixes heavy machinery or lawn equipment will have the right belt. I think it needs to be at least 10mm or 1/2 wide, then the length you need.
Yep 10mm or .41 inches. My mechanic told me that, and my napa carries solid non cogged belts. Im going to get one I just had the god awful look of the green belts lol. I'm definitely not putting a cogged belt back on it.
 
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Yep 10mm or .41 inches. My mechanic told me that, and my napa carries solid non cogged belts. Im going to get one I just had the god awful look of the green belts lol. I'm definitely not putting a cogged belt back on it.
I know others have said it 100 times, but do make sure your pulleys are aligned, and the right ones for that particular combination. Smooth belt won't save you if your pulleys are wobbly. Check the belts after a few miles and see if there is any rubbing going on on the sides of the belt, like it's peeling. If it is, you still have issues. The belt should be protruding a smidge out of the pulley groove itself.
 
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My Gates v-belts I have currently on my Monte have notches on the bottom, I bought them a few years ago when I decided to replace all my belts so they were all the same brand, the ones that were on there were a mixture of some smooth and some with notches and I never had an issue with either style.
I think as long as your alignment and tension is correct and you use a quality belt that has the right pitch and width then your pulleys won't care what style v-belt it has.
 
I don't want to spend a lot on a water pump, under $100 and I I want to keep it mechanical and high flow. How do I I have a short pump and with a stock v belt setup I need a clockwise pump correct? I also see two different pilot diameters. How do I know what pilot size I need?

I found this pump, opinions?
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-310115

My pulley on my pump now is a single groove only one vbelt running it on my setup and I found this pump. Would these be a good combination?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3959
Those parts look right for what you need. Below is the instruction sheet for the pump. Bottom left shows how to tell if you have a short or long neck pump by measuring.
Screenshot_20170313-185917.png


The pilot diameter of the pump and pulley are the same so you are set there as well.
 
I think the root of my problem was the slight wobble on the water pump pulley. I'm going to order a new summit racing pump and pulley. Should be here in a few days, I'll report back and let you know how the new setup works.

Regardless I need to toss the Autozone pump, too much money in this motor to skimp on cooling and I would say that pump is my weakest link in my cooling setup...

Slightly built motor I'll probably see some benefit from a better pump also
 
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1969 and later is long water pump, except in Corvette. If your alternator is on the passenger side, you have a long water pump, allowing you have GM style brackets.
 
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I'm wondering why you think you need a high volume water pump. High volume water pumps are used if you have steam pockets and hot spots on the cylinder walls or to prevent cavitation of the impeller. Also what rpm will you be running the engine, you need to know that to set up the ratio of your pulley. We ran a stock gm water pump on our 602 crate engine in our circle track G body and with the right pulley ratio we ran that engine at 6200 rpm and the engine ran hot but never buried the needle.
 
I think the root of my problem was the slight wobble on the water pump pulley. I'm going to order a new summit racing pump and pulley. Should be here in a few days, I'll report back and let you know how the new setup works.

Regardless I need to toss the Autozone pump, too much money in this motor to skimp on cooling and I would say that pump is my weakest link in my cooling setup...

Slightly built motor I'll probably see some benefit from a better pump also
1969 and later is long water pump, except in Corvette. If your alternator is on the passenger side, you have a long water pump, allowing you have GM style brackets.
after measuring today I do have a long style water pump. I'll be looking into a different pump and pulley.
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I think the root of my problem was the slight wobble on the water pump pulley. I'm going to order a new summit racing pump and pulley. Should be here in a few days, I'll report back and let you know how the new setup works.

Regardless I need to toss the Autozone pump, too much money in this motor to skimp on cooling and I would say that pump is my weakest link in my cooling setup...

Slightly built motor I'll probably see some benefit from a better pump also
I'm wondering why you think you need a high volume water pump. High volume water pumps are used if you have steam pockets and hot spots on the cylinder walls or to prevent cavitation of the impeller. Also what rpm will you be running the engine, you need to know that to set up the ratio of your pulley. We ran a stock gm water pump on our 602 crate engine in our circle track G body and with the right pulley ratio we ran that engine at 6200 rpm and the engine ran hot but never buried the needle.
i only run my motor up to 5700 rpm. I don't necessarily think I need a high flow pump I just feel like my motor deserves more than a stock $28 water pump from Autozone. I don't like skimping on anything especially from cooling but if there isn't anything to gain I would rather not swap the pump just because I have to tear everything apart and deal with the coolant mess. I've read online ppl have lost 10 degrees on their motor temperature that alone seems worth it to me. Obviously not the case for everyone .
 
Good evening Mobile 25 & all; I should of been a little quicker. I took off my billet steel (Pulley Specialties out of Texas) under drive pulleys & I'm looking for a buyer. So if you haven't ordered yet you may want to consider what I have. Being that they are machined out of a solid chunk of steel the run out is probably around a .001 of an inch or less & they will never wear out. At least in our life time. I also have newer (800 miles) Goodyear Gator back Matchmaker belts that should fit right on. If your interested give me a shout out & I'll post some better pictures. By the way they weren't cheap, but they were a lot less expensive than the Very pricey March Aluminum stuff. Ole' Bob.
Ps: I've never tossed or flipped a belt with these!
 

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