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Hooker 2455's go right in
Just have to clearance the pass side lower control arm mount a hair
Just have to clearance the pass side lower control arm mount a hair
I have tubular lowers you have to shave a hair off the mount not the arms
These were my old test fit set another member here has/had them on his car for a couple of years now
They do come with the flanges and you can get the Hookers for 200 shipped on ebay new
These were my old test fit set another member here has/had them on his car for a couple of years now
They do come with the flanges and you can get the Hookers for 200 shipped on ebay new
those look good, but with the range of tolerances of g-bodies, I can tell you from personal experience they don't always fit. If I'm not mistaken those are the F-body application headers that some people have had success with. Those were the original headers I tried on my car, and fortunately I was able to send them back after I beat the crap out of them because there were other issues with them that constituted a defect, and because of that I am a big speedway motors fan, they really didn't have to take them back.
When I installed them, they contacted the frame directly, and smacking a tube wasn't enough to clear. On my car I would have had to have cut a tube, and then added a new custom bent length tube to them. The drivers side had to be beaten to clear the steering shaft. My understanding is that it would probably have cleared the jeep steering shaft, which I plan on adding, but not till later down the road.
My research showed that my experience with those wasnt unique, and alot of people have had to substantially modify those headers to get them to fit. My research also shows that people trim the pass side lower control arm mount a little bit, and the driver side motor mount a little bit and they go right in like in the picture above.
Given the clearances and what I went through installing the Doug's headers, mine went in fine, but I could see where if there was a slight difference in tolerances even the Doug's headers could need to have tubes dented or clearanced. Those 2255's are really nice headers, I wish they had worked for me. This is my 4th set of headers and manifolds, and I am pretty happy with them. I super happy with the Doug's headers and the clearance they provide, I also like the 3 bolt flanges they have.
Even with as well as they fit, I have a gen vi block, and so I had 3 separate options for oil pressure sending unit, and as is usually the case with these things, I am going to have to relocate it to one of the other options because the headers are in the way.
When I installed them, they contacted the frame directly, and smacking a tube wasn't enough to clear. On my car I would have had to have cut a tube, and then added a new custom bent length tube to them. The drivers side had to be beaten to clear the steering shaft. My understanding is that it would probably have cleared the jeep steering shaft, which I plan on adding, but not till later down the road.
My research showed that my experience with those wasnt unique, and alot of people have had to substantially modify those headers to get them to fit. My research also shows that people trim the pass side lower control arm mount a little bit, and the driver side motor mount a little bit and they go right in like in the picture above.
Given the clearances and what I went through installing the Doug's headers, mine went in fine, but I could see where if there was a slight difference in tolerances even the Doug's headers could need to have tubes dented or clearanced. Those 2255's are really nice headers, I wish they had worked for me. This is my 4th set of headers and manifolds, and I am pretty happy with them. I super happy with the Doug's headers and the clearance they provide, I also like the 3 bolt flanges they have.
Even with as well as they fit, I have a gen vi block, and so I had 3 separate options for oil pressure sending unit, and as is usually the case with these things, I am going to have to relocate it to one of the other options because the headers are in the way.
Headers clearance as installed.
i guess i have an enormous leak at my oil pressure sending unit, and its super difficult to tighten up because of the clearances involved with the headers now.
The third option for mounting it is directly above the oil filter. There is a round plug with a square hole that looks like i could remove and it would be the ideal location.
the problem is, i don’t have the tool to get it out, or know where to get it.
There are 2 plugs of this style on the car i would like to remove. They look loke they are designed to just stick a ratchet head or extension in them, but the square hole (ha ha) is smaller than a 3/8ths drive ratchet head, and bigger than a 1/4” drive ratchet head.
Any ideas?
also, the monte is back at the exhaust shop!!!
once i get it back, the 02 sensors will be installed, ill fix the oil leak, and i have a few ideas for how to finish my gauges, but i think its safe to pretty much call this swap finished.
ive already started collecting parts for an HCI swap. I have an edelbrock side mount 4150 box upper that utilizes my stock tb and keeps everything where its aupposed to go, that im going to stick on top of a Holley 300-561 efi oval port manifold, a comp cam, and afr 265 heads.
probably my next thread will be the interior restoration, and getting the a/c to work.
i cant remember iffi me tioned this, but the hookers and dougs headers require you to tilt the motor towards the pass side, and i didnt see that a big beefy portion of the wiring harness was hiding behind the leading edge of the a/c box, and it cracked the a/c box, so i am going to have to effect a repair there.
ill post pictures as soon asni get it back from the exhaust shop, and then we can probably stick a fork in the swap thread.
i guess i have an enormous leak at my oil pressure sending unit, and its super difficult to tighten up because of the clearances involved with the headers now.
The third option for mounting it is directly above the oil filter. There is a round plug with a square hole that looks like i could remove and it would be the ideal location.
the problem is, i don’t have the tool to get it out, or know where to get it.
There are 2 plugs of this style on the car i would like to remove. They look loke they are designed to just stick a ratchet head or extension in them, but the square hole (ha ha) is smaller than a 3/8ths drive ratchet head, and bigger than a 1/4” drive ratchet head.
Any ideas?
also, the monte is back at the exhaust shop!!!
once i get it back, the 02 sensors will be installed, ill fix the oil leak, and i have a few ideas for how to finish my gauges, but i think its safe to pretty much call this swap finished.
ive already started collecting parts for an HCI swap. I have an edelbrock side mount 4150 box upper that utilizes my stock tb and keeps everything where its aupposed to go, that im going to stick on top of a Holley 300-561 efi oval port manifold, a comp cam, and afr 265 heads.
probably my next thread will be the interior restoration, and getting the a/c to work.
i cant remember iffi me tioned this, but the hookers and dougs headers require you to tilt the motor towards the pass side, and i didnt see that a big beefy portion of the wiring harness was hiding behind the leading edge of the a/c box, and it cracked the a/c box, so i am going to have to effect a repair there.
ill post pictures as soon asni get it back from the exhaust shop, and then we can probably stick a fork in the swap thread.
Attachments
People always ask me why i didn't just ls swap this. Like to the point of nausea.
I took a screen shot below from this video, but holdner did a dyno of this engine as it sits with headers with the same specs, and it made 356 hp and 486 ft lbs of torque.
not including the peripherals like the wiring harness and the crossmember (you technically dont need either, i just got them as “luxury items” to make the swap easier for me personally.I got this driveline out of a donor vehicle i purchased for $800 that i got $300 back out of when i sold the truck with the monte’s engine and trans laying up front.
this was way easier than the last ls swap i did in an mcss.
if you watch that video, you can see how well the motor responds to the same things people do to ls motors. The cam im planning on running is substantially healthier than the one he used, so im hoping to be dynoing 5xx to the wheels after the heads cam intake swap is done.
as it stands, i already have more power than an 04 gto, and more torque than the first 2 generations of Dodge Viper.
i included some pics of the edelbrock box plenum below.
I took a screen shot below from this video, but holdner did a dyno of this engine as it sits with headers with the same specs, and it made 356 hp and 486 ft lbs of torque.
not including the peripherals like the wiring harness and the crossmember (you technically dont need either, i just got them as “luxury items” to make the swap easier for me personally.I got this driveline out of a donor vehicle i purchased for $800 that i got $300 back out of when i sold the truck with the monte’s engine and trans laying up front.
this was way easier than the last ls swap i did in an mcss.
if you watch that video, you can see how well the motor responds to the same things people do to ls motors. The cam im planning on running is substantially healthier than the one he used, so im hoping to be dynoing 5xx to the wheels after the heads cam intake swap is done.
as it stands, i already have more power than an 04 gto, and more torque than the first 2 generations of Dodge Viper.
i included some pics of the edelbrock box plenum below.
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did not work. Its definitely a size in between 3/8ths and 1/4
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