I've seen the button one there but not to confuse or misdirect the OP I'm looking into if there is a change between the '78 & '79 temp gauges as per A/G-bodies between the '64-'78 & '79 (1/2" NPT), '80-'88 (3/8" NPT) senders. I do have the button one in my head ('70 L48) but with seeing the different p/n's for '78 & '79 makes me really want to also double check for myself. I do remember going over the ohms rating in the old BW catalog that my employer at the time had (around '07-'08) & was believing I grabbed the right one. I'll have to get out to the garage & see what the box list for the p/n. FYI, I have a '81 using '86-'88 gauges.
I've seen the button one there but not to confuse or misdirect the OP I'm looking into if there is a change between the '78 & '79 temp gauges as per A/G-bodies between the '64-'78 & '79 (1/2" NPT), '80-'88 (3/8" NPT) senders. I do have the button one in my head ('70 L48) but with seeing the different p/n's for '78 & '79 makes me really want to also double check for myself. I do remember going over the ohms rating in the old BW catalog that my employer at the time had (around '07-'08) & was believing I grabbed the right one. I'll have to get out to the garage & see what the box list for the p/n. FYI, I have a '81 using '86-'88 gauges.
The original housing on our cars (& back to about '57) should have the notch at the end to fit the button. I have been saving them everytime I find them since they do have the issue of melting on hot manifolds & headers. I believe the replacement/repair wire kits have them too. I don't like any of my terminals to be exposed. I even shrink tube my terminals that don't have a housing/cover in a way they are protected but not to cause interference with the connection.
I've seen the button one there but not to confuse or misdirect the OP I'm looking into if there is a change between the '78 & '79 temp gauges as per A/G-bodies between the '64-'78 & '79 (1/2" NPT), '80-'88 (3/8" NPT) senders. I do have the button one in my head ('70 L48) but with seeing the different p/n's for '78 & '79 makes me really want to also double check for myself. I do remember going over the ohms rating in the old BW catalog that my employer at the time had (around '07-'08) & was believing I grabbed the right one. I'll have to get out to the garage & see what the box list for the p/n. FYI, I have a '81 using '86-'88 gauges.
This is true. I did a gauge swap into my blue 79 Monte Carlo and found out the hard way that the gauge set I used was a 1978 set. There was a change in resistance for the temperature gauge between 1978 and 1979. The button style listed on Rock Auto will work for the 78 and older Part #G 1852 in the AC Delco line. Part # 2134792 in the AC Delco line is the blade type calibrated at the higher ohm reading for the 79-88 gauge sets. Having headers on my 79 I found when I had the incorrect blade type sending unit installed that by carefully bending the blade down on itself (use a 1/16 or 5/64 drill behind if needed) I was able to keep the wire away from the header tubes. Just a suggestion!
For those of you that have waited patiently...the actual results of testing the Duralast TU65 temp sender for the 79 Elky/Monte and the TU66 sender for the 80 Elky/Monte...
these results are may beoff by a few ohms because of me using an analog meter...
This is true. I did a gauge swap into my blue 79 Monte Carlo and found out the hard way that the gauge set I used was a 1978 set. There was a change in resistance for the temperature gauge between 1978 and 1979. The button style listed on Rock Auto will work for the 78 and older Part #G 1852 in the AC Delco line. Part # 2134792 in the AC Delco line is the blade type calibrated at the higher ohm reading for the 79-88 gauge sets. Having headers on my 79 I found when I had the incorrect blade type sending unit installed that by carefully bending the blade down on itself (use a 1/16 or 5/64 drill behind if needed) I was able to keep the wire away from the header tubes. Just a suggestion!
Well tried to remove the plug in the intake to use the hole for the temp sender. Used a 1/2 breaker bar, heat, impact and still couldn't get it to budge. Eventually the hex head hole in the plug stripped out so I have to take the intake off and drill out the plug. Just out of curiosity did GM ever go to metric bolts for the intake? If so what size? I'm used to the 3/8 bolts with the 9/16 heads.
Well tried to remove the plug in the intake to use the hole for the temp sender. Used a 1/2 breaker bar, heat, impact and still couldn't get it to budge. Eventually the hex head hole in the plug stripped out so I have to take the intake off and drill out the plug. Just out of curiosity did GM ever go to metric bolts for the intake? If so what size? I'm used to the 3/8 bolts with the 9/16 heads.
No metric hardware in the intake. It's most likely cause it's a steel plug in an aluminum intake for it fighing you. Best thing for those are aluminum plugs for the likes of Summit or Jegs, that what I did. Instead of fighting that plug if you don't need to try drilling it out at the dimple bu the water neck. I'd stick with the stock size thread sender for it (3/8" NPT) unless you already have a 1/2" NPT tap.
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