Thought about that but I don't know what that resistance range in ohms should be for me to measure it.
Moving the temp sender
- Thread starter rogus
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| Temperature | Resistance |
|---|---|
| 50° F (10° C) | 5670 Ω |
| 68° F (20° C) | 3520 Ω |
| 86° F (30° C) | 2238 Ω |
| 104° F (40° C) | 1459 Ω |
| 122° F (50° C) | 973 Ω |
| 140° F (60° C) | 667 Ω |
| 158° F (70° C) | 467 Ω |
| 176° F (80° C) | 332 Ω |
| 194° F (90° C) | 241 Ω |
| 212° F (100° C) | 177 Ω |
on the internet, while other guys are searching p*rn I spend my time looking up helpful sh*t...
If you do split screen or have ane extra screen you can do both. 😗on the internet, while other guys are searching p*rn I spend my time looking up helpful sh*t...
But on the serious side, don't for get to ground everything before you test the sender off the car.
Yes you can, that is what I did with mine.
Also, I put three 3/32 holes in the thermostat flange to allow water flow while warming up the engine. It was a suggestion that I read in one of my car magazines a couple of years ago. It only takes a couple extra minutes to warm up, but there is no cold water shock to the engine block.
If you do add the small holes to the thermostat, be careful not to make them too large, or too many of them. I went through 3 thermostats before I got it right.
The small holes also allow the temp gauge to receive info from the sending unit before the thermostat opens.
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