Nah, it's a regular cam. The engine does have oil pressure though thanks to all the times it cranked over with no result so there's that.
But I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little worried about the tappets and lobes.
New engine no start issue
- Thread starter Buford T. JuSStice
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But I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little worried about the tappets and lobes.
Did the engine builder not break the cam in before delivering the engine?
Well there's a prescribed break in period for the engine, but they DID run and test the engine before sending it so I have to assume that yes, they did break in the cam before delivery.
that's good, the cam is safe, carry on and good luck. I would start over setting up the timing and make sure all the plug wires are in their right place...🙂
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I have not gotten too far into the wiring on the G-bodies, but on the older cars, the ignition was powered by a separate terminal off the starter while cranking. Are these the same?
Just go back to squae one, and start over.
Verify voltage to the coil during crank
Verify TDC and #1 rotor and cap position
Check the balancer for 0* to make sure it didn't slip
Verify voltage to the coil during crank
Verify TDC and #1 rotor and cap position
Check the balancer for 0* to make sure it didn't slip
Verified timing issue. It wasn't 180 degrees off, but it was off by enough to throw it into turmoil.
Did as Fleming442 said, and started from scratch. Pulled the plugs, wires, took the belt off, pulled bank 1 valve cover, rotated the crank until it was TDC on the compression stroke, picked where I wanted #1 to be, went with my initial marks on the distributor for where the rotor will be pointing initially to where it will be pointing when it's in, dropped it in, pulled it out, repositioned the oil pump intermediate shaft, dropped it right in, bolted it down, put the valve cover back on, put the plugs back in, wires back on, installed everything else I had to install, rotated the crank a few times until I had pressure, put the ignition wire back on, and she fired right up.
You've always got time to do it right the second time!
Did as Fleming442 said, and started from scratch. Pulled the plugs, wires, took the belt off, pulled bank 1 valve cover, rotated the crank until it was TDC on the compression stroke, picked where I wanted #1 to be, went with my initial marks on the distributor for where the rotor will be pointing initially to where it will be pointing when it's in, dropped it in, pulled it out, repositioned the oil pump intermediate shaft, dropped it right in, bolted it down, put the valve cover back on, put the plugs back in, wires back on, installed everything else I had to install, rotated the crank a few times until I had pressure, put the ignition wire back on, and she fired right up.
You've always got time to do it right the second time!
That'll come after she's running correctly. Started setting the static timing, got it go the factory specified 13-14 degrees BTDC and then started to tune the carburetor. Set the idle at about 600 rpm to keep it running smoothly, was just getting ready to start tuning the idle air/fuel mixture and noticed she was getting hotter than hell. Smoke coming off the headers (I suppose that's normal at least since they're supposed to bake off the protective coating) and the overflow starting to boil, so I went to the temp gauge in the car and it was heading north of 260 degrees!
I turned it off immediately, and it ran on for a few seconds until I covered the carb with a rag and cut off the oxygen supply.
Letting it cool all the way down, put a box fan in front of the radiator, double checked everything to make sure it was okay. I'm thinking the advance should be retarded a little bit, and I'm gonna try to run the carburetor a little on the rich side to prevent it from getting too hot.
I have heard that brand new engines tend to do this, but I was really taken by surprise at HOW quickly it heated up... less than 10 minutes!
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