I'll have to observe the radiator hoses as well next time it starts up to make sure the lower doesn't start collapsing and cutting off coolant supply. That's a definite possibility. The one I have in there doesn't have a spring on the inside.
Right, so it's got to be something to do with either the fuel mixture, or coolant most likely, and not the timing. I'm still suspicious of the lower hose. It makes the most sense right now. I'll run it for a few minutes, observe, and turn it off before it starts getting hot again.if you didn't run it that long and it heated up quickly if you have a electric choke the choke may have still be on which could have caused the run on. Since the builder ran the engine it had to be run for 20 minutes to break in the cam so if the engine had an overheating issue they would have seen that.
Totally agree, even an Olds 403 isn’t capable of that - hahaI agree with the air. There's no way an aluminum radiator should get to 260 in 10 minutes. Unless, of course, the thermostat is stuck shut.
Like I said, it was north of 260, almost 280. I'm the same though, up to 220-240 I'm not worried, but this made me move with the quickness to shut it down and stop the engine as soon as I saw how hot it was.How hot did it get? to me anything up to 240 I'm not worried
I will definitely try that! However, I do know for a fact it got at least somewhere north of 260 like I said, because the reservoir boiled over, and that doesn't happen unless it's hot.your over heating sounds like an air lock take off the rad cap to burp it when it is running or turn on your defrost at the heat controls to burp it this very common with new engines
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