I think I would also try to find the source of the issue over the symptom. Water temperatures are hot due to combustion in the cylinder head. Oil does not see combustion temperatures and lubricates the bottom end so it should not be that hot. If the oil is picking up 300 degrees of temperature then the parts it is lubricating are generating a ton of heat. A Babbitt bearing should not be seeing more than 300 degrees.
Oil Coolers
- Thread starter FluoFerret
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that might explain a lot, but that would mean that every available oil measuring sensor isn't really reaching the oil flow, or they were all faulty
i use the port above the oil filter on my chevy SB.
Engine oil coolers do make sense in European traffic where speeds are usually higher than in the US. My daily driver soccer mum mini van (VW Sharan V6) does have an oil temp gauge from factory and while water temps always stay the same (thanks to the thermostat), the oil temps rise between 15-20°C under heavy load, i.e. 100+mph uphill. Both readings on the gauges are backed up by my OBDII reader which usually runs on the Android car stereo.
My El Camino will also get an engine oil cooler and already has an aux. trans cooler in front of the radiator.
My El Camino will also get an engine oil cooler and already has an aux. trans cooler in front of the radiator.
Is a GN rad big enough to cool a V8? When my Regal still had its n/a 231, its original rad was much smaller than the MCSS rad I put in for my V8 swap.
UPDATE:
I think I found one possibility why my oil runs so hot: the oil filter. It's FRAM PH30, theoretically a correct filter for my car, but its a small one. A bigger model seems to be in order. How I concluded this? Well, I helped my Dad to do some maintenance on his plane (air cooled piston-engine, single). apparently, just because the filter fits on the threads doesn't mean its rated for the pressure given by the pump. in a plane, an oil filter that is too small will heat up the oil by its restrictif flow, that's why for airplanes, the filters have a pressure/volume rating which must be observed.
unfortunately, most oilfilters for car engines don't. i pulled the small fram now and will install the larger one i bought today. what baffled me is that the oil openings are larger compared to the fram. we will see if it helps with the temperatures. an oil change was anyways needed...
I think I found one possibility why my oil runs so hot: the oil filter. It's FRAM PH30, theoretically a correct filter for my car, but its a small one. A bigger model seems to be in order. How I concluded this? Well, I helped my Dad to do some maintenance on his plane (air cooled piston-engine, single). apparently, just because the filter fits on the threads doesn't mean its rated for the pressure given by the pump. in a plane, an oil filter that is too small will heat up the oil by its restrictif flow, that's why for airplanes, the filters have a pressure/volume rating which must be observed.
unfortunately, most oilfilters for car engines don't. i pulled the small fram now and will install the larger one i bought today. what baffled me is that the oil openings are larger compared to the fram. we will see if it helps with the temperatures. an oil change was anyways needed...
You can run an aftermarket oil cooler .I used some components from TransDapt .You can use AN fittings with braided and or hard line. And You can also put a temp sensor in the oil pan .My Camaro is supercharged with 15lbs plus of boost. I run a remote dual filter set up and a remote oil cooler .And if things get bad enough you can always use an oil cooler with a fan.
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