Oil Coolers

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I would think the oil pressure would be blow 40 at idle with the high temperatures, Are you running a BB oil pump or a high volume?
 
If that engine is still under warranty I would be contacting GM to see if they have any solutions to the high oil temperatures. If the engine is built too tight that can cause the engine to run hot but you would notice that with the coolant temperature
 
the oil pressure is about 40psi at idle when full hot. starting and cold, the oil -pressure is around 60psi




Castrol Edge 10w40 full synthetic 🙂

My understanding is that higher viscosity and higher pressure both tend to heat the oil.
 
If that engine is still under warranty I would be contacting GM to see if they have any solutions to the high oil temperatures. If the engine is built too tight that can cause the engine to run hot but you would notice that with the coolant temperature

unfortunately not. i bought and swapped it into the car back in 2006. a few months back i installed a temp-gauge for the engine and transmission. while the transmission-temp is perfect, the engine-temp bakes my noodle on what and why... what exactly do you mean by "built to tight? not enough clearance/tolerance between moving parts, or just too hot on the camshaft for the OEM-block?
 
My understanding is that higher viscosity and higher pressure both tend to heat the oil.

viscosity is a normal range as required by the engine-manufacturer. higher pressure might be the problem, as i have a high volume oil pump and the FRAM-filter had very small openings. haven't gotten around to bring the car on the road with the K&N-oil-filter, but I am curious if the larger oil-ports in the filter will make a difference.
 
unfortunately not. i bought and swapped it into the car back in 2006. a few months back i installed a temp-gauge for the engine and transmission. while the transmission-temp is perfect, the engine-temp bakes my noodle on what and why... what exactly do you mean by "built to tight? not enough clearance/tolerance between moving parts, or just too hot on the camshaft for the OEM-block?

too tight is not enough clearance with the rings and bearings but since you had that engine running since 06 that would not be the problem. If you want to see a tight engine a Formula 1 engine has to have warm oil pumped through it for 1.5 hours before it is started. A cold Formula 1 engine is actually a seized engine.
 
unfortunately not. i bought and swapped it into the car back in 2006. a few months back i installed a temp-gauge for the engine and transmission. while the transmission-temp is perfect, the engine-temp bakes my noodle on what and why... what exactly do you mean by "built to tight? not enough clearance/tolerance between moving parts, or just too hot on the camshaft for the OEM-block?
I think he's referring to tight bearing (and or ring) tolerances.
 
viscosity is a normal range as required by the engine-manufacturer. higher pressure might be the problem, as i have a high volume oil pump and the FRAM-filter had very small openings. haven't gotten around to bring the car on the road with the K&N-oil-filter, but I am curious if the larger oil-ports in the filter will make a difference.
I’m sorry, I wasn’t implying you were using the incorrect viscosity oil, just expressing a general principle. I too am looking forward to what happens with the K&N
 
Allright, the larger K&N oil filter did help a little bit, but still, the temperatures are high. I am now putting in a cooler and routing the oil lines
20190729_165641.jpg


For some reason, I thought it to be a good idea to pull the oil filter adapter and check its bypass-valve. Two things:
1) There was no gasket between the adapter and the engine
2) The bypass-valve loos pretty beat up. Compared to a new one I had in stock, I doubt that it should look like this. Right side is the new one, left side the old one.
20190729_173540.jpg
 
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