Old school fix for loose main and rod bearings.

[Neill]

IMO, It would only take bearing to metal contact one time at operating rpm to cause damage that would be expensive to fix. Also, the low oil pressure at temp may be from wear only on one or two of the bearings. If this is the case you may have a breakdown sooner than expected. If you "have" to continue to drive the car, you could switch to a straight 40 or even 50 viscosity oil. This might by you some time.

I would pull and look, if it were mine but it's not. Good luck with whatever you do.

I did try the new 5-50 wt. , or 10-50, I think it was the former, synthetic oil, as a hail mary pass before taking it off the road. I have another car to drive, thankfully, in the mean time

IMO, It would only take bearing to metal contact one time at operating rpm to cause damage that would be expensive to fix. Also, the low oil pressure at temp may be from wear only on one or two of the bearings. If this is the case you may have a breakdown sooner than expected. If you "have" to continue to drive the car, you could switch to a straight 40 or even 50 viscosity oil. This might by you some time.

I would pull and look, if it were mine but it's not. Good luck with whatever you do.

I did throw a hail mary pass into it with the ,new to me, 5-50 wt . synthetic oil, which did not help. I am thankful to have another vehicle to drive until I get the chance to do the bearing work I am planning on ,mentioned at the start of this thread. 'Till then, the ship will stay in drydock.

 

[Max Headroom]

Sorry you had trouble. If you are looking to prolong life under these circumstances, a single viscosity weight is always better. Straight 40-50 weight.

 

[Neill]

Sorry you had trouble. If you are looking to prolong life under these circumstances, a single viscosity weight is always better. Straight 40-50 weight.

The key will stay out of the ignition until repairs are made.

 

[airboatgreg]

Shim or an undersize bearing. Not pretty but will work for a bit

 

[Neill]

I think pontiacgp may have brought up cam bearings because of the oil path of SBCs. If cam bearings are shot your crank is already being starved. May not be your problem but it's something to consider.

I can only be very optimistic that I would be lucky enough the mains not be scored as well. That would rain on my parade.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Aren't used 350 SBC for sale everywhere down there? They are here since the LS craze, pretty much giving them away here.

 

[pontiacgp]

I have never heard of this an an ole school fix. It seems like alot more work than what we did for a cheap rebuild. We'd trade the crank in as a core and pick another one up with sized bearings for it.....

 

[Gwarren79]

 

[fleming442]

 

[pontiacgp]

I had a guy with an S10 that had a broken crank come into a shop where I worked in FL. The engoine was still running but the crank pulley has a bad wobble and he had a hard time believing the crank was broken. I replaced the crank and bearing but one of the mains had too much clearance on the cap, the block side was good. He didn't like the quoted price to tear down the engine to send out for new caps and a line bore and asked if there was an alternative. I told hin I might be able to shave the cap but no warranty if we put the engine back in with no line bore. He agreed so I got out a piece of thick glass and taped down some sandpaper. I sat there with a beer on one hand and ran the cap over the sand paper till the clearance was good. Put the engine back together and dropped it in his truck and that engine ran great and he didn't mind paying extra for the time I spend on the cap......