PLEASE HELP! Am I screwed?

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I talked with the mechanic who worked on it. He specifically remembers that because of the custom swap/set up, there’s a homemade bracket that makes proper adjustment screwy or weird. I wish they would’ve mentioned that when I picked up the car!! Hopefully, an adjustment will either fix or at least improve things. I must admit though, in my anger following my discovery of a slipping brand new clutch, I roasted my tires a few different times (no burnouts) and did a few hard (rolling) accelerations. Hopefully I didn’t ruin any unknown hope I may have had.
 
I talked with the mechanic who worked on it. He specifically remembers that because of the custom swap/set up, there’s a homemade bracket that makes proper adjustment screwy or weird. I wish they would’ve mentioned that when I picked up the car!! Hopefully, an adjustment will either fix or at least improve things. I must admit though, in my anger following my discovery of a slipping brand new clutch, I roasted my tires a few different times (no burnouts) and did a few hard (rolling) accelerations. Hopefully I didn’t ruin any unknown hope I may have had.

the only added bracket that would be necessary if the F body bell housing was not used and a braket had to be fabricated to mount the slave cylinder. That bracket does not affect the adjustment or how an adjustment is made.
 
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Yeah but the key here is proper adjustment no matter how wierd or complicated. If the TOB was adjusted so that there was no force on the pressure plate fingers at rest then the pressure plate clamping force should prevent any slipping. Even a slave cylinder needs to be adjusted for the gap.
 
My guess would be contamination and or improper installation.
 
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I'm betting improper installation of parts used by the previous owners.
 
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So it still needs to be NOT touching the PP fingerts. How is that adjusted? Shims behind the TOB? I'm betting someone goofed way back at square one and no one has caught it.

I picked up my Mcleod TOB 1302 today and I was incorrect with the way mine is adjusted. The 4 bolts for the bearing retainer are removed, the TOB isfastened to the transmission using 4 Allen head bolts 1/4" longer then the factory bolts. The bearing is shimmed between the bearing and the body of the TOB. The bearing is pulled off to add or removed the shims. Each shim is .150 and 3 come with the TOB. The minimum gap is .100, max is .250

you can see the shims in this picture

TOB.jpg
 
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I picked up my Mcleod TOB 1302 today and I was incorrect with the way mine is adjusted. The 4 bolts for the bearing retainer are removed, the TOB isfastened to the transmission using 4 Allen head bolts 1/4" longer then the factory bolts. The bearing is shimmed between the bearing and the body of the TOB. The bearing is pulled off to add or removed the shims. Each shim is .150 and 3 come with the TOB. The minimum gap is .100, max is .250

you can see the shims in this picture

View attachment 113107
So, you have to hook the lines up once it's in the bellhousing? No thanks! Mine is hard enough to line up just getting the fork on the trans stud! My hands sure as hell aren't fitting through the fork hole to attach AN lines.
 
So, you have to hook the lines up once it's in the bellhousing? No thanks! Mine is hard enough to line up just getting the fork on the trans stud! My hands sure as hell aren't fitting through the fork hole to attach AN lines.

The lines are attached to the TOB, you tie a string to the lines, feel the string though the opening for the fork, point the lines forward, install the transmission and pull the lines to opening with the string
 
The lines are attached to the TOB, you tie a string to the lines, feel the string though the opening for the fork, point the lines forward, install the transmission and pull the lines to opening with the string
You make it sound sooooooo easy! :rofl:
 
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