PLEASE HELP! Am I screwed?
- Thread starter 79 Goon
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Tell that to my Malibu and father in Laws old Z06.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
The problem is people buying parts for there cars that arent rated for there setup.
Stop riding the clutch!!!!!!!!
I don’t ride the clutch. I know how to drive. I’m 45 years old and have had plenty of vehicles with manual trannys.
I have heard of that and read that but I don't agree. A clutch disk is made to slip so it's not an on/off switch when engaging the clutch. If there is contanimation of oil on the disk that oil contaminated clutch material will not slip like the uncontaminated clutch material causing the chatter. If you have the pad on a brake shoe contaminated with rear end oil that wheel will lock up before any other wheel. In a rear end with a posi that has clutch packs if you don't add the additive to the oil the clutch disks will chatter.
You aren't screwed but the diagnosis on why the current clutch and the previous clutch failed will be key. Sure, putting an automatic in it would be easy, but the car won't be nearly as fun. I'm wondering if the clutch was fully engaging. In other words, with the clutch pedal all the way up, is the throwout bearing completely disengaged from the pressure plate?
Your setup isn't stock in that you are using a hydraulic throwout bearing where a slave cylinder and fork were used. Your setup may need some tweaking to perfect it. You will need a technician, not a parts changer, to analyze the failure and formulate the remedy.
Your setup isn't stock in that you are using a hydraulic throwout bearing where a slave cylinder and fork were used. Your setup may need some tweaking to perfect it. You will need a technician, not a parts changer, to analyze the failure and formulate the remedy.
I'm confused. I good shop would have flagged a leaking seal that would contaminate a clutch. Enough oil would drip down to see it from the inspection cover, if you have one. A poorly adjusted clutch would make itself known immediately. Not disengaging would make shifting noisy and difficult. That leaves a clutch that does not engage all the way and it would get hot and slip. The adjustment at the clutch push rod should have a small amount of free play. That means the clutch pedal would travel about an inch before there is any contact between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers. The gap is about 1/8" at that point of contact. You can get up under there and measure it easilly enough. If the linkage is all tight with no free play then that is your problem. It will also kill the throwout bearing in short order. Adjust it properly and then try driving it. You may get lucky and be OK since it was a new unit. If it is shot then by all means take it back and raise Holy Hell with whoever did the work.
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Mark, you must have missed that he is running a hydraulic throwout bearing from a 4th Gen Camaro. I'm not sure we know where the clutch master cylinder came from, but my guess is 4th Gen Camaro. It's a T5 transmission from a 3rd Gen Camaro.
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