BUILD THREAD Project long time coming

[64nailhead]

I had nothing but problems from my Warr unit which is a China unit too, they just engrave their name on it and install loctite on the blade screw. Went back to stock truck and have zero issues.

It’s a little more than that. It’s obvious the bearings are different, and it’s made from a a solid piece of aluminum rather than a casting. Perhaps I lucked out with mine.

I tried drilling and tapping an Amazon sub $100 unit and it was almost impossible to cut a clean thread in cast aluminum. And I’m positive the noise that the Warr unit emits in cold startup is much less than the Amazon units I’ve bought. The IAC passage is not just a straight bore with sharp edges.

As mentioned previously though, all I cared about was not having leaks from where the IAC and TPS mount and none from the shaft seals. There is a good chance that they have made some improvements or found a better chyna supplier.

 

[Tony1968]

It’s a little more than that. It’s obvious the bearings are different, and it’s made from a a solid piece of aluminum rather than a casting. Perhaps I lucked out with mine.

I tried drilling and tapping an Amazon sub $100 unit and it was almost impossible to cut a clean thread in cast aluminum. And I’m positive the noise that the Warr unit emits in cold startup is much less than the Amazon units I’ve bought. The IAC passage is not just a straight bore with sharp edges.

As mentioned previously though, all I cared about was not having leaks from where the IAC and TPS mount and none from the shaft seals. There is a good chance that they have made some improvements or found a better chyna supplier.

Have you ever tried smoothing the IAC entrance? It is something I want to try

 

[64nailhead]

Have you ever tried smoothing the IAC entrance? It is something I want to try

No, but this can be tuned to lessen the noise, it’s just more difficult and time consuming to get around and still have it start correctly in all conditions.

 

[Streetbu]

64nailhead and I struck a deal on some rec port heads and he even dropped them off! Was great to finally meet you Jim! Guess I'll have plenty to do this winter!

 

[Streetbu]

One step forward, two steps back.
Santa was good to me and brought a UMI rear shock brace.

The other good news is that it should be easy to put in, because I had to pull the rear-end to be rebuilt. I knew it had too much backlash (for some unknown reason), and when I removed the cover to install my rear disc brakes, the fluid had some sparkle to it. Decided I had better do it now, before I add more power :/

 

[Streetbu]

Well good/bad news from my rear end guy. Bearings and gears are needed. I knew Bearings would be, wasnt thrilled about the gears but it is what it is. Decided to go with 3.73's since we had to replace them. Hopefully I don't regret the change from the 3.42. I think it'll be good though. Supposed to have it back next week.

Cleaned and painted my rear sway bar.

Attempted to install the rear UMI shock brace. Per the instructions, install supplied 3/8" hardware.... well the frame holes are too small. Ok, I can drill those out. Hmm, let me check the shocks. Nope... ever tried to drill a slotted opening out? I'm sure I could take my die grinder to it and open them up. That isn't the point. Why can't UMI Sales at the VERY LEAST, put a message in the instructions that say you may need different hardware, drill holes, etc? Grrr

 

[pagrunt]

Attempted to install the rear UMI shock brace. Per the instructions, install supplied 3/8" hardware.... well the frame holes are too small. Ok, I can drill those out. Hmm, let me check the shocks. Nope... ever tried to drill a slotted opening out? I'm sure I could take my die grinder to it and open them up. That isn't the point. Why can't @UMI Sales at the VERY LEAST, put a message in the instructions that say you may need different hardware, drill holes, etc? Grrr

When I put mine on I just got longer grade 8 flange head 5/16" bolts & didn't bother with what they supplied.

 

[Streetbu]

When I put mine on I just got longer grade 8 flange head 5/16" bolts & didn't bother with what they supplied.

Yeah that's what I'll do. I just don't understand what is so hard about supplying the correct information even. It's disappointing. Guess I'm just whining LOL

 

[Streetbu]

Bought new 5/16" hardware for the rear shock brace. It's in, but not bolted down. Will be easier to leave the shocks out when I try to get the rearend back under the car.

Working on cleaning my shop more and I stumbled across a USB port I had bought for the car. Threw it in the old cigarette lighter spot, and realized why I hadn't installed it yet. Has a voltmeter that is always on. DOH! That's what I get for hoarding parts. Oh well. Looks good and works. I'll have to add a switch next to it so I can kill power while the car is sitting.

 

[64nailhead]

I have one of those USB chargers and love it - it doesn't draw many amps at all. I've left mine on for a week and seen it drop .5 volts. If you're concerned about it staying on, then I'd say put a relay in rather than a switch so that it comes on once the car is running (harder wiring, easier use)