Sorry about your loss Donovan. At least you have plenty of support here.
BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)
- Thread starter Rktpwrd
- Start date
Sorry to hear about your loss. My Boxer Peyton passed this summer. Theyll fight til their last breath. And I think they do it for their owner. My mom always told me to "Hold my head up" so that's what we do. I still look for my dog when i get home and mom when I go to her house. If Im my boy isnt with me I usually break down. I feel for you and will pray you find peace.
There are a few things I've learned in my life. The truth always comes out. And the only way to get past a dog's passing is to get another one. Take your time and grieve. Wait a few weeks or a month. Then go to your local shelter and save a dog's life. Your dog would have wanted it this way. It's not to replace him or her, but rather to honor them...
Jmho
Jmho
Sorry for your losses brother. Keep on keepin on. It builds character. There is no shame in shedding a tear.
Sorry to hear about your recent losses D. My heart and prayers go out to you. It's never easy as men to process this correctly. We're always expected to suck it up, rub some dirt on it and move on.
This may sound weird, but in times like that, I have a few "go to" movies that I know will jump start an emotional response. I have a good cry in private for a few minutes, and it really helps to cull that pent up anger/sadness/loss. It actually feels good to get it all out and move beyond it.
However you deal with it, just know we're here, and we got your back.
Hutch
This may sound weird, but in times like that, I have a few "go to" movies that I know will jump start an emotional response. I have a good cry in private for a few minutes, and it really helps to cull that pent up anger/sadness/loss. It actually feels good to get it all out and move beyond it.
However you deal with it, just know we're here, and we got your back.
Hutch
Sorry to hear things aren't going very smoothly for you Donovan. Very sorry for your losses. Hope things clear up for you.
As for those gaps, they are probably in the 95th+ percentile for uniformity on these cars. Everyone knows these cars had terrible fit and finish right off the lot.
I spent hours upon hours for a solid week at least tweaking and shimming my doors, fenders and hood until eventually I came to the conclusion that as long as everything opened and closed nicely and without hitting anything and nothing stuck out like a sore thumb, it was good enough.
Anyways, hope things get better for you soon. Take care buddy.
As for those gaps, they are probably in the 95th+ percentile for uniformity on these cars. Everyone knows these cars had terrible fit and finish right off the lot.
I spent hours upon hours for a solid week at least tweaking and shimming my doors, fenders and hood until eventually I came to the conclusion that as long as everything opened and closed nicely and without hitting anything and nothing stuck out like a sore thumb, it was good enough.
Anyways, hope things get better for you soon. Take care buddy.
I didn't want another dog after Teddy passed. A lot of guilt, should behave been nicer to him at times, still loved me. Wife insisted, now we have 4 that absolutely love for us everyday. Time does make it easier. I insisted we get a Pomeranian as the 4th, so similar to Teddy but has also picked up some Dachshund traits. They provide us much amusement, a bunch of playful goofs. I pulling for you, we are all in this together.
Just a quick little update to bring everybody up to speed, motivation for anything car related has been at an all time low lately for obvious reasons, but it’s slowly getting better.
Forced myself to get out in the garage and accomplish something a few times this week, got the two tone break line masked and the top of the fender completely blocked out in 220, 320, and 400 grit dry. As well as the inside section scuffed with red ScotchBrite. It’s 100% done and ready to shoot the grey now.
I blocked out the top of the door the exact same way at the same time, but ran into a disappointing setback. Somehow, for some reason, a nasty high spot manifested itself where there wasn’t one before. It’s right at the front of the door where the inside reinforcement ends.
All I can think of is that possibly the weight of it hanging, or maybe pressure from the new weather stripping caused it to show up. Yet another reason why I’m not a huge fan of painting panels entirely off the car and then hanging them afterwards. If the door had been 100% painted inside and out and then this showed up, I’d be looking at a repair and repaint on the outside of the door.
Not good.
Thankfully this isn’t the case, so as much as it sucks to repair now, it could’ve been much worse. The rest of the top of the door blocked out nicely however...
...and here’s a closer look at the trouble spot:
As you can see, I broke clean through all the high build and epoxy to bare metal, yet nothing forward of that even got touched by the block.
Not good either.
So, we start over. I lightly ground the high spot down (normally you’d hammer and dolly it down, but there’s nowhere for the metal to go because of the reinforcement directly underneath it), then ground everything forward of it down to bare metal too. If the block didn’t touch it, it’s likely low now, high spot or not.
Once it was slightly low instead of high, I skimmed and blocked the area a couple times until I was happy with it.
The masking tape break line did it’s job, it kept me from carrying the repair over the body line, and kept it isolated to the upper section. I’ll be reusing this line when I mask and reprime the area.
When that repair was completed, I also addressed one other little unhappy finding. This one was completely my own fault. When I stripped all the old paint from the door handle recess, I didn’t use a coarse enough grit of sandpaper to do it. So as a result, after the second round of high build primer, the solvent softened up the underlying layers and when it dried, it shrank. (This is completely normal, all high build primers will shrink slightly as they cure). Unfortunately, as it did so, it pulled up the epoxy and subsequent layers of high build and puffed up. Recognizing what had happened, I pushed on the puffed up bubble and cracked it.
Here’s what I’m talking about:
This was all caused by, and could’ve been avoided by using a coarser grit to profile the metal with. For those interested, an 80 grit scratch in bare metal is only equivalent to about a 120 grit scratch in filler or primer. IIRC, I probably only used a Clean N Strip wheel to clean all the old paint out with, and it leaves too fine a finish for anything to stick to.
Note also, that I said when it lifted, it separated between the metal and epoxy. This is a very important thing to make note of for you guys planning on doing your filler work on top of epoxy. You GOTTA make sure your bare metal surface is properly prepped and profiled before you apply any epoxy on it. Epoxy is a very good and versatile product, but it’s only as good as the prep underneath it. If I had’ve done any filler work over epoxy in this spot, it all would’ve come off as well when the epoxy lifted.
There, you’ve been warned.
Anyways, to rectify the situation I forced myself to completely sand the entire recess back down to bare metal with 80 grit by hand. Yes, it sucked to do as much as you’d expect, but at least this way I was guaranteed the metal would be properly profiled this way.
So that’s pretty much where I stand as of now. Both areas are ready to go, gotta do a little more masking and hit the areas with epoxy and high build again. Two steps forward, two steps back sometimes, but it is what it is. I share my failures with y’all just as much as my successes. We’ve got a long weekend coming up here tomorrow, so hopefully I’ll have the repaired areas done and ready to share with you soon.
Until then,
D.
Forced myself to get out in the garage and accomplish something a few times this week, got the two tone break line masked and the top of the fender completely blocked out in 220, 320, and 400 grit dry. As well as the inside section scuffed with red ScotchBrite. It’s 100% done and ready to shoot the grey now.
I blocked out the top of the door the exact same way at the same time, but ran into a disappointing setback. Somehow, for some reason, a nasty high spot manifested itself where there wasn’t one before. It’s right at the front of the door where the inside reinforcement ends.
All I can think of is that possibly the weight of it hanging, or maybe pressure from the new weather stripping caused it to show up. Yet another reason why I’m not a huge fan of painting panels entirely off the car and then hanging them afterwards. If the door had been 100% painted inside and out and then this showed up, I’d be looking at a repair and repaint on the outside of the door.
Not good.
Thankfully this isn’t the case, so as much as it sucks to repair now, it could’ve been much worse. The rest of the top of the door blocked out nicely however...
...and here’s a closer look at the trouble spot:
As you can see, I broke clean through all the high build and epoxy to bare metal, yet nothing forward of that even got touched by the block.
Not good either.
So, we start over. I lightly ground the high spot down (normally you’d hammer and dolly it down, but there’s nowhere for the metal to go because of the reinforcement directly underneath it), then ground everything forward of it down to bare metal too. If the block didn’t touch it, it’s likely low now, high spot or not.
Once it was slightly low instead of high, I skimmed and blocked the area a couple times until I was happy with it.
The masking tape break line did it’s job, it kept me from carrying the repair over the body line, and kept it isolated to the upper section. I’ll be reusing this line when I mask and reprime the area.
When that repair was completed, I also addressed one other little unhappy finding. This one was completely my own fault. When I stripped all the old paint from the door handle recess, I didn’t use a coarse enough grit of sandpaper to do it. So as a result, after the second round of high build primer, the solvent softened up the underlying layers and when it dried, it shrank. (This is completely normal, all high build primers will shrink slightly as they cure). Unfortunately, as it did so, it pulled up the epoxy and subsequent layers of high build and puffed up. Recognizing what had happened, I pushed on the puffed up bubble and cracked it.
Here’s what I’m talking about:
This was all caused by, and could’ve been avoided by using a coarser grit to profile the metal with. For those interested, an 80 grit scratch in bare metal is only equivalent to about a 120 grit scratch in filler or primer. IIRC, I probably only used a Clean N Strip wheel to clean all the old paint out with, and it leaves too fine a finish for anything to stick to.
Note also, that I said when it lifted, it separated between the metal and epoxy. This is a very important thing to make note of for you guys planning on doing your filler work on top of epoxy. You GOTTA make sure your bare metal surface is properly prepped and profiled before you apply any epoxy on it. Epoxy is a very good and versatile product, but it’s only as good as the prep underneath it. If I had’ve done any filler work over epoxy in this spot, it all would’ve come off as well when the epoxy lifted.
There, you’ve been warned.
Anyways, to rectify the situation I forced myself to completely sand the entire recess back down to bare metal with 80 grit by hand. Yes, it sucked to do as much as you’d expect, but at least this way I was guaranteed the metal would be properly profiled this way.
So that’s pretty much where I stand as of now. Both areas are ready to go, gotta do a little more masking and hit the areas with epoxy and high build again. Two steps forward, two steps back sometimes, but it is what it is. I share my failures with y’all just as much as my successes. We’ve got a long weekend coming up here tomorrow, so hopefully I’ll have the repaired areas done and ready to share with you soon.
Until then,
D.
Learning so much.... I don't know if my brain can handle it... 🤔
Thanks Donovan.... if anything, this will make me double and triple check my work.
Thanks Donovan.... if anything, this will make me double and triple check my work.
I’ve been a production painter for years and we use an ez edger to fold 3/4 masking tape for door jambs. When you put the tape in there properly it gives a softer edge than the foam. Sometimes the foam can leave a jagged edge from the paint build up. Some prep guys I know can fold the tape this way with their hands but unfortunately I can’t.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD455NE/?tag=gbody-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD455NE/?tag=gbody-20
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