Quarter Panel Body work…

Hotboyrn84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 1, 2012
48
18
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Hey there.. attempting on doing some pretty heavy repair of the quarter panels and for my 1980 Cutlass I’m finding that there is some substance between the seam of the bottom along with spot welds… I was trying to be as original as possible… it’s pinkish hot pinkish and at 40 years old not exactly hard like bondo… anyone have any idea what I’m talking about? I’ll add more pics tonight and try to get what I’m talking about…
 

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g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Sep 6, 2020
444
43
Good job on getting this far man.

Have the same problem on my 1967 Pontiac too, although mine have rusted more towards the bottom where it had sat for so long.

Not sure what the pink stuff could be, check if it’s seam sealer?
 

Hotboyrn84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 1, 2012
48
18
Sounds like it might be factory seam sealer.
So u think they did that first then spot welded? I’m trying to make sure I don’t start a fire lol. I’m looking through project old school and at least the upper quarter he has the same as me but also some roof patching and he used a “panel bond” on flanged patches to his roof… he mentions welding clamp (cleco or how ever it’s spelled) so I’m thinking the same concept no?
 
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g3chevy

Greasemonkey
Jan 30, 2019
108
43
Spring, Texas
You definitely want to do your welding or panel bonding before you utilize the seam sealer. The seam sealer is used to keep moisture out of areas that would be susceptible to the elements. And I would also use weld through primer on these areas to keep any rust from forming after the repair is done. I use clecos on some panels and self tapping screws on others depending of the repair. I don't have a lot of experience with panel bonding so I'm hoping someone else will chime in on that.
 
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abbey castro

Master Mechanic
Oct 31, 2015
388
93
Harker Hts TX
Its a "seam sealer" it fills the seam and it is not a bounding element. Do all your welding 1st then finish with the sealer. You can get a nice finish look by using a dry paint brush and giving it a wipe where you can get to it.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Supporting Member
Apr 3, 2015
7,146
113
Spring, Texas
So u think they did that first then spot welded? I’m trying to make sure I don’t start a fire lol. I’m looking through project old school and at least the upper quarter he has the same as me but also some roof patching and he used a “panel bond” on flanged patches to his roof… he mentions welding clamp (cleco or how ever it’s spelled) so I’m thinking the same concept no?
Rktpwrd do you care to comment, since you are an expert on bodywork and on the 80 Cutlass?
 
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Hotboyrn84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 1, 2012
48
18
So the 2nd photo is the side I’m on now after separating the inner wheel well from the inner quarter…. The first is the driver side and u can kind of see the filler. It looks to me like it runs the entire seem except where the spot welds of course are…

They did that by spot welding and purposely leaving a gap so they could force seam sealer into it? Cause I don’t understand how it got into the seam this well but maybe.

The rest of the photos are the long road I have to go but the frame is painted and the rear seat floor brace rust cut out and repaired and the bigger new rear is in…
 

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Ribbedroof

"That wagon guy"
Supporting Member
Jan 4, 2009
4,225
113
Wellston, OK
The OEs used a sealer that was welded through in places like the quarter panel pinchwelds (still do sometimes, though most new stuff is weld-bonded with an adhesive). That sealer between the pinchwelds is where rot often starts.

As for the brushed-on sealer...it's crap. I worked with a guy that loved it, put it on everything....BUT it dries out over time and cracks away.

I would use either a bare-metal sealer like 3M 8310, or a urethane over primed metal. The 3M 8310 is an epoxy and can be applied to clean bare steel. I'm sure others have a similar product, I know Kent makes a panel sealer-adhesive product that both bonds and seals.

As for panel bond, it's for non-structural panels. Proper use requires both parts to be ground to bare metal, then a bead is placed on each panel, and brushed out to COMPLETELY cover the bare metal. Then another bead is run on one panel, and the assembly is clamped until cured. The only panel bond failures I've seen were due to improper prep....metal exposed, adhesive over e-coat, insufficient adhesive.
 
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