I may not understand since I'm not there looking at it. Initially on dad's car, I wanted to flange the car and then lay the patch on top. That wasn't possible since we couldn't get the flanging tool in near the edges at the wheelhouse or doorjamb. With our patches, where we have a tab, the patch is 5/8" bigger than the opening on the car. This extra 5/8" is for the flange. At the edges, the patch was trimmed to butt weld as there was no room there for the flange. The purpose of the flange is to provide strength/support for the welding to limit warpage. It is helpful along the long flat expanses of sheet metal that are the most prone to warpage.
With your roof, you need it to butt on both sides. Then you need it 5/8" longer than it needs to be across the top. You would flange that extra 5/8" so it would slip under the remaining portion of the existing roof. You would be fine plug welding that seam but I think I would use the adhesive. On the sides, you could weld them together with a series of tacks. That area is strong because of all of the shape. I hope this makes sense.