roof rot malibu

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Yes, flange the patch, and treat it as a 'tab' near the edges. You will probably be able to clamp up your repair since it is relatively shallow and the windshield is out. Yes, we are flanging the patches on the Galaxie for the same reason. You can't get the flanging tool in on the edges. Let me know how I can help. I want to.
I think I am lost help me out...so instead of putting the flange "step down" onto the existing skin for the replacement to set into, just flange the replacement "step up" to sit on top of the existing skin?
 
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I think I am lost help me out...so instead of putting the flange "step down" onto the existing skin for the replacement to set into, just flange the replacement "step up" to sit on top of the existing skin?
No, flange the patch to slip under the existing roof.
 
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20170506_112645.jpg
 
No, flange the patch to slip under the existing roof.
Ok i see. Will that throw off the alignment of the drip rail area??? As I am peeling off the old skin there so the new skin fits like the factory. Your thoughts?? Or will the flange make up for that space?
 
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Is it me or do these body lines not look right or is that how it supposed to look? Not lining up? Body line on a pillar door side and windshield body line. Opinions? Any close up shots of one in that area appreciated. Thanks
 

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Ok i see. Will that throw off the alignment of the drip rail area??? As I am peeling off the old skin there so the new skin fits like the factory. Your thoughts?? Or will the flange make up for that space?
I may not understand since I'm not there looking at it. Initially on dad's car, I wanted to flange the car and then lay the patch on top. That wasn't possible since we couldn't get the flanging tool in near the edges at the wheelhouse or doorjamb. With our patches, where we have a tab, the patch is 5/8" bigger than the opening on the car. This extra 5/8" is for the flange. At the edges, the patch was trimmed to butt weld as there was no room there for the flange. The purpose of the flange is to provide strength/support for the welding to limit warpage. It is helpful along the long flat expanses of sheet metal that are the most prone to warpage.

With your roof, you need it to butt on both sides. Then you need it 5/8" longer than it needs to be across the top. You would flange that extra 5/8" so it would slip under the remaining portion of the existing roof. You would be fine plug welding that seam but I think I would use the adhesive. On the sides, you could weld them together with a series of tacks. That area is strong because of all of the shape. I hope this makes sense.
 
Is it me or do these body lines not look right or is that how it supposed to look? Not lining up? Body line on a pillar door side and windshield body line. Opinions? Any close up shots of one in that area appreciated. Thanks
It doesn't look terrible to me but the pictures might not be telling the story. What part of it is bothering you? The gap? How wide is it? Are the body lines working? Be patient. The fit up is the most important part.
 
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It doesn't look terrible to me but the pictures might not be telling the story. What part of it is bothering you? The gap? How wide is it? Are the body lines working? Be patient. The fit up is the most important part.
It doesn't look bad. Not worried about the gap as pop will fill that with silver and I will grind smooth. I am more concerned with the body line that runs up the a pillar and the curve body line that goes around windshield. The a pillar body line just ends on top of a pillar. No continuation onto replacement skin. And the curved body line on replacement skin at windshield, there is no body line on a pillar that seems to match that one. Or is it just me??
 
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