Unlike video games, something productive
BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!
- Thread starter RabbitHoleSS
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Your tip over jig has got my interest!
How thick of plywood did you use for the tip over radius? Do you think it may try to slide on the floor as the weight of the body transfers to the side?
When you tip it over, take a pic of it. I may use your idea in the future!
How thick of plywood did you use for the tip over radius? Do you think it may try to slide on the floor as the weight of the body transfers to the side?
When you tip it over, take a pic of it. I may use your idea in the future!
Thanks but I cant take credit. This is how i made it 😁 if you got major rust repair check out eme macks build thread. Tons of info
gbodyforum.com
Ill take a pic this weekend after I get tge floor in. Ill have help the first time to roll it and then put a kick stand on it. It feels solid now. The only difference in mine is at the door post and I used 7/8 treated but i bet 3/4 is plenty.
EME_Mack's Redneck Rotisserie / Roll over Jig
Some folks wanted too see how I built my Tip over jig, so here is a more detailed post then what I had in my build thread. Before I get started my shell was completely stripped down with only the windshield installed, every other part was removed during the rust repair which made it as light as...
gbodyforum.com
I spent the day putting the floor in. I have been prepping for this since I started. It fit in there great. Im very pleased with Goodmarks replacement panels. I just trimmed the back and overlapped it. I used self tappers to fit everything tight.
I used clamps on the firewall to pull it tight. Then I tacked it in a few spots to hold everything from moving. I used a hammer and my seam buster to push the metal tight between spot weld/tacks. If your quick and do it while its hot itll be real tight.
From the front the gap is basically gone.
The back seat tub was a little tricky. I had to make a small relief were it makes the turn and work the piece into shape around the lip of the inner rocker.
Everything is tight and welded really good.
I have to finish welding it all in. How necessary is it to weld all the lapped seams completely? Im gonna wait until the brace is in to roll it over. Just a reminder what it looked like.
I used clamps on the firewall to pull it tight. Then I tacked it in a few spots to hold everything from moving. I used a hammer and my seam buster to push the metal tight between spot weld/tacks. If your quick and do it while its hot itll be real tight.
From the front the gap is basically gone.
The back seat tub was a little tricky. I had to make a small relief were it makes the turn and work the piece into shape around the lip of the inner rocker.
Everything is tight and welded really good.
I have to finish welding it all in. How necessary is it to weld all the lapped seams completely? Im gonna wait until the brace is in to roll it over. Just a reminder what it looked like.
Looks awesome man, congratulations. That’s a major milestone, worthy of celebrating.
🍺
You don’t need to completely weld the lapped seams completely, the factory never did. Just plug weld them together. As a general rule of thumb, I like to space plug welds no further than 1” apart. Hammer and dolly the pieces together as tight as you can first, then buzz them up.
You’ll have to reapply seam sealer to everything afterwards, so don’t stress if you can’t get them perfectly tight everywhere.
Looks great, keep up the good work!
🍺
You don’t need to completely weld the lapped seams completely, the factory never did. Just plug weld them together. As a general rule of thumb, I like to space plug welds no further than 1” apart. Hammer and dolly the pieces together as tight as you can first, then buzz them up.
You’ll have to reapply seam sealer to everything afterwards, so don’t stress if you can’t get them perfectly tight everywhere.
Looks great, keep up the good work!
Thanks. I never thought it'd turn out as good as it did. Im gonna burn in the brace today,flip it over and finish prepping the bottom for epoxy/seam sealer/raptor liner. Or should brush epoxy on the seams then seam seal,spray epoxy on the entire underbody and then spray the raptor?
You HAVE TO prime before Raptor . I would epoxy, seam seal, then Raptor. Some seam sealers say to apply to bare metal. I prefer treating the metal with epoxy.Great job BTW . Definitely a job to be proud of.
I wanted the floor brace in before I flipped it. It was kind of a PITA to get in right. It might have been twisted from when I monkeyfisted it off the old pan. I started on 1 side screwed it down and forced the other side into position.
I got the car flipped over alone. Its hard to find any help right now. My son and his brother kept an eye on it to make sure i didnt hit the wall.
They cut it close for sure. It was really easy to flip. If you can lift 50 lbs you can flip it by yourself. I used cinder blocks as dunnage to stop it from rolling backwards.
Another 4 or 5 hrs an it should be ready for epoxy/seam sealer/raptor liner. The undercoating used on this car sucks. There's atleast 2 kinds. 1 is like asphalt almost. The other is like a plastic or something. Both suck equally. I found spots the PO sprayed the liner over dirt clumps,spider webs and rust.
I got the car flipped over alone. Its hard to find any help right now. My son and his brother kept an eye on it to make sure i didnt hit the wall.
They cut it close for sure. It was really easy to flip. If you can lift 50 lbs you can flip it by yourself. I used cinder blocks as dunnage to stop it from rolling backwards.
Another 4 or 5 hrs an it should be ready for epoxy/seam sealer/raptor liner. The undercoating used on this car sucks. There's atleast 2 kinds. 1 is like asphalt almost. The other is like a plastic or something. Both suck equally. I found spots the PO sprayed the liner over dirt clumps,spider webs and rust.
Well it took probably 2x as long as I thought to remove the undercoating. This has been the 1st part of the rebuild that I had to force myself to do. It sucks, but its done.
Also cut out the spare tire well since it was rusty. I made the patch out of this left over upper trunk pan. I replaced both #5 body mounts with it but I keep almost all my sheet metal scraps in case I need a certain angle or shape like this. I made a pattern from cardboard and transferred it to the trunk pan backwards. So the stamping was backwards.
So I flipped it and 2 pieced it.
I used screws and clamps to hold it in place. I tack and hammer all the way around, using the heat to mold the soft metal around all the contours.
Does anyone recognize these brakes. They're on my 8.8 that came with the parts car. I was thinking sn95 mustang but idk.
Also cut out the spare tire well since it was rusty. I made the patch out of this left over upper trunk pan. I replaced both #5 body mounts with it but I keep almost all my sheet metal scraps in case I need a certain angle or shape like this. I made a pattern from cardboard and transferred it to the trunk pan backwards. So the stamping was backwards.
So I flipped it and 2 pieced it.
I used screws and clamps to hold it in place. I tack and hammer all the way around, using the heat to mold the soft metal around all the contours.
Does anyone recognize these brakes. They're on my 8.8 that came with the parts car. I was thinking sn95 mustang but idk.
Hmm... those calipers look like SN95 calipers, but I’ve only seen those used with a single piece, non-vented rotor. I’ll look at some of the Ford brake setups and get back to you.
If you still haven’t gotten seam sealer, a good one to get is Lord Corp.’s Fusor 123EZ. The stuff is an epoxy sealer and will flex with the car without cracking. It also builds real well so you can use it to fill in the large gaps the factory left, like between the cowl and A-pillar where they both meet the firewall.
This thread seriously makes me want to cut up and fix my floor pans the right way, that’s some amazing work!
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