BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!

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Northernregal

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Oct 24, 2017
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UC645

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Apr 20, 2020
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Hmm... those calipers look like SN95 calipers, but I’ve only seen those used with a single piece, non-vented rotor. I’ll look at some of the Ford brake setups and get back to you.

If you still haven’t gotten seam sealer, a good one to get is Lord Corp.’s Fusor 123EZ. The stuff is an epoxy sealer and will flex with the car without cracking. It also builds real well so you can use it to fill in the large gaps the factory left, like between the cowl and A-pillar where they both meet the firewall.


This thread seriously makes me want to cut up and fix my floor pans the right way, that’s some amazing work!
OK so I’m entirely off the ball on those brakes. That’s a Right Stuff Detailing brake kit with Seville calipers.

You could get a complete brake setup off a SN95 and modify it according to this thread(so you can use off the shelf stuff):
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...h-axles-and-stock-sn95-brake-brackets.859972/
 
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RabbitHoleSS

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Dec 8, 2019
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Hmm... those calipers look like SN95 calipers, but I’ve only seen those used with a single piece, non-vented rotor. I’ll look at some of the Ford brake setups and get back to you.

If you still haven’t gotten seam sealer, a good one to get is Lord Corp.’s Fusor 123EZ. The stuff is an epoxy sealer and will flex with the car without cracking. It also builds real well so you can use it to fill in the large gaps the factory left, like between the cowl and A-pillar where they both meet the firewall.


This thread seriously makes me want to cut up and fix my floor pans the right way, that’s some amazing work!
Thanks I really appreciate the kind words(and memes). It just shows what you can do with the right mindset, tools(and a parts car). Plus all the info filled build threads on here you can do almost anything. I bought some seam sealer off jegs 7 bucks a tube around Christmas.
20200526_184102.jpg

I think I bought 7 tubes. Im not sold on using it yet but I cant afford to do the entire car in 2 part seam sealer. I was gonna use 2k on the drip rails, trunk to qtr seams and others that you see and the cheap stuff on the floor etc. Those brakes seem to be in a bind ,definitely questionable installation. Thanks for the link. From what I've read the sn95s are the way to go. Plus there's 100s wrecked in the picapart.
 
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UC645

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Apr 20, 2020
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Thanks I really appreciate the kind words(and memes). It just shows what you can do with the right mindset, tools(and a parts car). Plus all the info filled build threads on here you can do almost anything. I bought some seam sealer off jegs 7 bucks a tube around Christmas. View attachment 147325
I think I bought 7 tubes. Im not sold on using it yet but I cant afford to do the entire car in 2 part seam sealer. I was gonna use 2k on the drip rails, trunk to qtr seams and others that you see and the cheap stuff on the floor etc. Those brakes seem to be in a bind ,definitely questionable installation. Thanks for the link. From what I've read the sn95s are the way to go. Plus there's 100s wrecked in the picapart.
The 1k stuff will do the trick, but I’d use it in areas that see the least amount of water and I’d epoxy primer over both types of sealer.
Use the epoxy on areas like your rockers, the outer most areas of the floor, and the cowl. Those were the most prone to rust in my limited experience.
You’ll be good everywhere else, especially if you add body and frame bracing to the car.
If you get SN95 rears, see if you can snag some backing plates, I don’t know if Ford allows repops of them. They don’t with their drum backing plates.

Also, I’m sorry if I came across as a bit of a prick in an earlier (now edited) post. I hadn’t meant to come across as such.
 
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RabbitHoleSS

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Dec 8, 2019
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Ive been working on the seat mounts. One of them had broken bolts. So I ground them flat and drilled the middle of the stud out. Then I ran carriage bolts thru and welded them in.
20200606_145538.jpg

I painted the area under the outer seat mounts, then seam sealed and painted over it.
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I fit the seats from my parts car before welding to make sure it all set right.
20200606_160835.jpg

Also got a good start on the firewall. Looks like the p/o went to town with a grinding wheel last time. There's a bunch of gouges in the metal. Im thinking of smoothing it out with all metal since its so rough.
20200606_225945.jpg

Im thinking of leaving the factory primer on the backseat and under the dash. I got most of the paint off already. I also scuffed the floor pan with 220 instead of taking it down to bare metal. Ill be spraying epoxy over all of it. If anyone thinks Im screwing up. I'm all ears. Just trying to save a few hours of misery.
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Its slow going with work and having my stepson every weekend for the last month, but im still plugging away. Ill be spending any free time this week cleaning dust out of my garage.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Stay the course brother, your plan is sound. As said, it’s monotonous drudgery work but it’ll pay off in the end. It’s coming along nicely, keep at it!
 
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UC645

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Apr 20, 2020
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That’s some good work on that floor.

Go ahead and take the rest of that factory primer off on the backseat area, you’ve already got most of it off. If you’re painting it with epoxy, it could start to lift down the road since it’s lacquer; judging from the white paint in the interior.
 

RabbitHoleSS

G-Body Guru
Dec 8, 2019
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Your killing it man. That's a lot of drudgery work and it's looking really good. Keep going, you're getting closer!
Stay the course brother, your plan is sound. As said, it’s monotonous drudgery work but it’ll pay off in the end. It’s coming along nicely, keep at it!

I had to look up drudgery( hard menial or dull work). Id say that word fits this task perfect. Thanks for the compliments. It helps knowing whether or not im screwing the pooch. Im ready to wrap up this portion of rust repair with paint/raptor. Im ready to try my luck on the wheel arch rust I uncovered.
That’s some good work on that floor.

Go ahead and take the rest of that factory primer off on the backseat area, you’ve already got most of it off. If you’re painting it with epoxy, it could start to lift down the road since it’s lacquer; judging from the white paint in the interior.
Well you probably scared me enough with the word "lift". It'll probably take longer to dig out the remaining primer as it did to strip the paint off everything but im leaning towards takin it off. Thanks for the advice. Btw you could've left your rant about the brakes up. I appreciate your opinion. It helps to make informed decisions. Plus it was kinda funny.
 
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RabbitHoleSS

G-Body Guru
Dec 8, 2019
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I spent most of the weekend with a grinder and purple strip wheel. Got it down to bare metal on the backseat/wheel well area. I left the brushed on epoxy from earlier repair since i took it to metal then. Where it overlapped onto the white paint it was stuck on pretty good. Definitely harder to take off then the factory paint. S*** sticks like glue.
20200614_230340.jpg
Back seat.
20200614_164221.jpg
I finally took the jute and wire harness out from under the dash. There was rust stains but nothing past the paint it seemed. The only worrisome spots were inside where the door hinges are. Im gonna spot blast them next weekend.
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Firewall
20200614_230416.jpg
I also welded in the console mounts that I cut out last week. I needed a break from grinding. There kinda crooked but the console set straight enough.
20200614_164248.jpg
The only welding left on the floor are the rear driver seat belt mount patches.
20200607_012937.jpg
It took me about 10 hours to dig all that out. It sucked. My hands just stopped vibrating. And I still have the entire outside and trunk to do:blam:
 
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