Somebody please give me some advice

[pontiacgp]

check your connections on the battery and charge it up and take a look at the connections on the starter

 

[CamaroAdam73]

I know the connections t othe battery aren't the problem but like i said, the rest of the wiring harness is in really rough shape, and I've got a good feeling that the connection to the starter has something to do with this, but what worrys me is when i turn the key to the on position, my check engine light does not come on anymore, and i don't here the "beeeeep" sound either.

 

[dan2286]

I know the connections t othe battery aren't the problem but like i said, the rest of the wiring harness is in really rough shape, and I've got a good feeling that the connection to the starter has something to do with this, but what worrys me is when i turn the key to the on position, my check engine light does not come on anymore, and i don't here the "beeeeep" sound either.

Check the connection at the starter, it supplies the power to the whole car. If you have a volt meter, it would me much easier to figure out.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I know the connections t othe battery aren't the problem but like i said, the rest of the wiring harness is in really rough shape, and I've got a good feeling that the connection to the starter has something to do with this, but what worrys me is when i turn the key to the on position, my check engine light does not come on anymore, and i don't here the "beeeeep" sound either.

Check the connection at the starter, it supplies the power to the whole car. If you have a volt meter, it would me much easier to figure out.

That's what I was thinking as my Cutlass did the same thing when the starter cable came loose. Remember: The starter's battery post is the main terminal bus for the whole car. If it comes loose, everything loses power.

 

[custom442]

Actually Custom442, when i took the top of the cap off to plug in the sparkplug wires the ground wire came lose! And it looks like it goes around the screw that holds the top of the cap on, it has a little eye hole at the end, but i'm not 100% sure, and yes it was firing to the right cylinders, i'm going to give it another go today and see if i can get it working right.

Did you fix the ground, washer up the screw right?

 

[custom442]

So i took everyone's advice and i was on my way to my friends shop to try and solve the lifter problem, and on the way over my car dies suddenly, very suddenly. It started to idle very very low and was un-responsive to me giving it gas, it back fired twice and died out. And now it won't even turn over, i get absolutely no Ignition, nothing. When i turn the key it acts like the battery isn't hooked up, my check engine light doesn't even come on like it used to, not even the beep sound when the key was in the on position, i tried replacing all the fuses and the one relay in the fuse box, nothing.

With which distributor? Stock or the new one?

Did you also check the main grounds from battery/frame/engine? They might be old or rusted out, painted over, nonexistent, etc.

Does the battery read good voltage? If so, then the starter's the culprit. Then get your alternator fixed if you can find a cheap local guy (there's one near me who rebuilds alternators & starters for 30$).

I doubt it's the wiring harness, you should see the condition of mine 😳

Just to make sure, you said earlier the number 5 cylinder was dead. Then it was the number 7. Did it change or was that a misprint?

 

[JESSE]

help

take your plugs out and see if you can turn the motor over by hand....jesse

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Yeah the engine is able to be turned by hand, i know thats not the problem.

Custom442, i put the stock one back in to get it to fire, with the new distributor installed it wouldn't start but it would crank at least.

And yeah the ground connections are good, and like i said my interior lights work, and so do my headlights, but i get no ignition.

Tomorrow me and a friend are going to re-wire some of the wiring in the front, the main 8-gauge red wire running from my starter was completely dry-rot and falling apart, a big section of the wire was so frayed apart it was about to just break in half.

As for the starter issue, I'm buying a new one but i don't know which one to buy yet, i know i need a 153 tooth staggered bolt pattern starter but i think both bolt patterns will fit my block.

And as for the lifter/cam problem, the problem is my cam, the lifters on cylinder 5 (yes 7 was a missprint) aren't opening or closing, but i also think the rocker arm studs/ adjuster nuts are shot also, because i can't remove the adjuster nut, it just spins.

I have a couple questions before i start ordering parts,

I'm about to order theese rocker arm studs/ rocker arms

http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?prod ... 565&page=1 / rocker arms (Updated, the other ones wouldnt clear my center bolt pattern valve covers)
http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=139 / Studs

And this camshaft and lifters

http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=392

And Valves, push rods, valve springs

http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=551 / valves
http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=681 / rods
http://kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=735 / springs

The top end of my engine is the stock 305HO top end from 88, i think the engine was called an L79 or L69

Does any body see any problems with the parts im going to order?? I want this install to go as smooth as possible, is there anything else i might need? this is the first time i've installed a new camshaft.

Oh and i also have a new timing chain cover and timing chain for my engine, true roller timing chain.

And at the same time im replacing the camshaft im going to be dropping a new intake manifold/water pump and thermost/housing.

After this is all said and done my engine SHOULD run like a champ, the only things on the top end that will be stock are my heads and exhaust manifold, so this should solve my problems and have my engine more than road worthy, i hope :shock:

:EDIT: And i almost forgot, if this helps to solve the mystery any, my alternator has been on its way to the grave for awhile now, it barley charges the battery anymore, after starting the car a few times i won't have the cranking amps anymore. My friend brought up a good point, after installing the new no slip belts could it have spun the alternator fast enough to surge my electrical system?

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

It would be an L69 305 (L79 refers to the 350hp 327 used in Corvettes, Chevelles and Chevy II's in the mid 60's). As for the parts, there is a BIG problem. Screw in studs require you to pull the old ones and drill and tap the heads for the new ones. This is best done with the head off the engine.

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Damn thanks for the heads up, you just saved me allot of headache, what rocker arm studs should i buy then??

And also i updated my last post with the valve/ springs and push rods that im buying, I've decided to just re-do the entire valve train.