BUILD THREAD Street/Strip Cutlass Build: Race it, break it, fix it, repeat.
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Re: Cutlass on a budget build thread
At the junkyard now, looking for a bumper and possibly fender. Get all the way up there (an hour drive) and then tell me I can't go in because I'm 17 (my dad is standing right next to me.)
At the junkyard now, looking for a bumper and possibly fender. Get all the way up there (an hour drive) and then tell me I can't go in because I'm 17 (my dad is standing right next to me.)
Re: Cutlass on a budget build thread
In case you guys didn't hear about the recent damage...Sweaty hand slipped off the steering wheel in 95 Degree NC heat and clipped the hoop in front of a gas pump. Fender, bumper, turn signal housing/lens, and bumper cover were taxed. Luckily the grills were ok.
😳 😳 :evil: Decided to scower a local junkyard and it was definitely an interesting day for sure. No luck at the junk yard, the only G Body Cutlass they had there went to the crusher on Friday. Still had the front bumper, but it was tweaked pretty bad. Poor car 😢
The junkyards website said the Cutlass was in place G-1, I guess when that car got crushed they put this pretty clean monte in its place
While waiting in the parking lot, saw some guy got mad beucase he couldn't return a battery he supposedly bought 2 days ago (it wasn't marked by the junkyard.) So on his way out, he swung a pretty big battery over his head and smashed it, quite the sight.
After getting a jump 3 times from a guy in the parking lot, his little neon finally fired up with the nastiest rod knock I have ever heard. He then put the car on the rev limiter for a second, and it died straight after. :? Anyways, pretty much a wasted trip. My dad and I pulled the fender out a little bit, and the bumper came back out pretty well with the help of a tree and a truck. Tommorow I'll just finish repairing some of the splits and cracks in the front bumper, and slap on some primer.
In case you guys didn't hear about the recent damage...Sweaty hand slipped off the steering wheel in 95 Degree NC heat and clipped the hoop in front of a gas pump. Fender, bumper, turn signal housing/lens, and bumper cover were taxed. Luckily the grills were ok.
😳 😳 :evil: Decided to scower a local junkyard and it was definitely an interesting day for sure. No luck at the junk yard, the only G Body Cutlass they had there went to the crusher on Friday. Still had the front bumper, but it was tweaked pretty bad. Poor car 😢 
The junkyards website said the Cutlass was in place G-1, I guess when that car got crushed they put this pretty clean monte in its place
While waiting in the parking lot, saw some guy got mad beucase he couldn't return a battery he supposedly bought 2 days ago (it wasn't marked by the junkyard.) So on his way out, he swung a pretty big battery over his head and smashed it, quite the sight.
After getting a jump 3 times from a guy in the parking lot, his little neon finally fired up with the nastiest rod knock I have ever heard. He then put the car on the rev limiter for a second, and it died straight after. :? Anyways, pretty much a wasted trip. My dad and I pulled the fender out a little bit, and the bumper came back out pretty well with the help of a tree and a truck. Tommorow I'll just finish repairing some of the splits and cracks in the front bumper, and slap on some primer.
Re: Cutlass on a budget build thread
Rough day today. Investigating why my starter keep grinding, and there is a huge crack on the drivers side of the transmission bell housing. This is the 2nd bell housing I have cracked, first one was on the passenger side. Motor mounts are being changed to poly, as well as changing the modified cross member to a jegs double hump crossmember with a poly mount. Just wanna get to the bottom of this, fast. Only 700 we have left in the garage is one out of an 80-90's vette, which is not the correct tailshaft mount. So my dad has some kind of mount in mind he is going to make, to try and make this transmission work.
Rough day today. Investigating why my starter keep grinding, and there is a huge crack on the drivers side of the transmission bell housing. This is the 2nd bell housing I have cracked, first one was on the passenger side. Motor mounts are being changed to poly, as well as changing the modified cross member to a jegs double hump crossmember with a poly mount. Just wanna get to the bottom of this, fast. Only 700 we have left in the garage is one out of an 80-90's vette, which is not the correct tailshaft mount. So my dad has some kind of mount in mind he is going to make, to try and make this transmission work.
Re: Budget Cutlass Build Thread BIG UPDATE 8/10/13
It's been a while since I've read up on this but you might not wanna use a poly mount for your trans. If I remember correctly, doing that might actually contribute to cracking the housing.
Someone else wanna weigh in on this?
It's been a while since I've read up on this but you might not wanna use a poly mount for your trans. If I remember correctly, doing that might actually contribute to cracking the housing.
Someone else wanna weigh in on this?
Re: Budget Cutlass Build Thread BIG UPDATE 8/10/13
First. nice build. 87-88 euro headlight Cutlass is my favorite G-body style. As far as your transmission mount goes, as a personal preference I go with a mount with more "give" than the motor mounts. For example Poly motor/OE rubber trans mount, solid motor/poly trans mount.
First. nice build. 87-88 euro headlight Cutlass is my favorite G-body style. As far as your transmission mount goes, as a personal preference I go with a mount with more "give" than the motor mounts. For example Poly motor/OE rubber trans mount, solid motor/poly trans mount.
Re: Budget Cutlass Build Thread BIG UPDATE 8/10/13
Yes Please, all help is appreciated. I think I am going to end up going with the Jegster double hump cross member for G Body's. I'm sure worn out rubber motor mounts are somewhat contributing to the problem as well.
307 Regal said:It's been a while since I've read up on this but you might not wanna use a poly mount for your trans. If I remember correctly, doing that might actually contribute to cracking the housing.
Someone else wanna weigh in on this?
Yes Please, all help is appreciated. I think I am going to end up going with the Jegster double hump cross member for G Body's. I'm sure worn out rubber motor mounts are somewhat contributing to the problem as well.
Re: Budget Cutlass Build Thread BIG UPDATE 8/10/13
Still need some help on this guys. Motor mounts need to be changed, I know that. I have new energy suspension poly mounts, these, I hope they are the correct ones.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1116g
The spare 700R4 we have is one out of a 90's corvette I'm pretty sure with a completely different mount, that my dad is going to fab up a bracket for. As mentioned I'm also going to change the cross member to this one
http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/41051 ... ProductId=
Still unsure about using a rubber transmission mount, or a poly transmission mount? Also I have heard of guys using some sort of torque brace or mid-plate with 700R4's. I know I don't have a torque wrenching big block but I wanna be as proactive as possible while we have to motor out and transmission out. We are also going to have the drive shaft rebalanced, and double check the crankshaft foot to make absolutely sure this is a 400 crank. Correct me if I am wrong, but 400's were internally balanced, and require a different balancer than a 350 crank would? The motor ran fine with no weird vibrations other than what I assumed were cracked rubber motor mounts. Like I said I just want to be as proactive as possible.
Still need some help on this guys. Motor mounts need to be changed, I know that. I have new energy suspension poly mounts, these, I hope they are the correct ones.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1116g
The spare 700R4 we have is one out of a 90's corvette I'm pretty sure with a completely different mount, that my dad is going to fab up a bracket for. As mentioned I'm also going to change the cross member to this one
http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/41051 ... ProductId=
Still unsure about using a rubber transmission mount, or a poly transmission mount? Also I have heard of guys using some sort of torque brace or mid-plate with 700R4's. I know I don't have a torque wrenching big block but I wanna be as proactive as possible while we have to motor out and transmission out. We are also going to have the drive shaft rebalanced, and double check the crankshaft foot to make absolutely sure this is a 400 crank. Correct me if I am wrong, but 400's were internally balanced, and require a different balancer than a 350 crank would? The motor ran fine with no weird vibrations other than what I assumed were cracked rubber motor mounts. Like I said I just want to be as proactive as possible.
Re: Budget Cutlass Build Thread BIG UPDATE 8/10/13
This is probably a long shot but do you know how many times your engine has been line honed? Everytime the main bores are honed the crank is moved upward. Obviously in pretty small increments but after awhile it could cause alignment issues. I have seen it when lining up a bellhousing on our dirt modified. Like I said its a longshot but its pretty odd that you have gone through 2 transmissions in such a short time without a high horsepower engine.
This is probably a long shot but do you know how many times your engine has been line honed? Everytime the main bores are honed the crank is moved upward. Obviously in pretty small increments but after awhile it could cause alignment issues. I have seen it when lining up a bellhousing on our dirt modified. Like I said its a longshot but its pretty odd that you have gone through 2 transmissions in such a short time without a high horsepower engine.
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