Suck N Blow Monte

[Turbo Zach]

I have a secondary O2 bung in my x-pipe. It will work fine that far down stream... so just behind the downpipe is plenty good.

I think I will go with that plan. I will leave the gauge out until I plumb the exhaust. The Sniper hand held tuch screen shows AFR pretty good, I don't really need the gauge. Beings I have a PLX Multi gauge I can buy more sensors and display anything I want through the gauge.

 

[motorheadmike]

I think I will go with that plan. I will leave the gauge out until I plumb the exhaust. The Sniper hand held tuch screen shows AFR pretty good, I don't really need the gauge. Beings I have a PLX Multi gauge I can buy more sensors and display anything I want through the gauge.

Too far upstream and you risk damaging the sensor.

 

[Turbo Zach]

Here is a visual of what the carb hat would look like red. Does not look too bad. If you don't know why it is red then I think people would see it out of place with the blue engine and black piping.

Here is where my O2 bung is at.

Beings we have Mike on here. Do you now a good rough place to start for degrees of timing with boost and RPM's for a Buick 3.8? I have been trying to research it, but Turbo Buick sight is down. I am thinking 3 degrees pure pound of boost? Not real sure were the initial timing should be either at what RPM.

 

[Turbo Zach]

The Holley instructions say to mount the O2 sensor as close to the engine as possible and in the collector. Maybe that one should go in the header ?

 

[motorheadmike]

Beings we have Mike on here. Do you now a good rough place to start for degrees of timing with boost and RPM's for a Buick 3.8? I have been trying to research it, but Turbo Buick sight is down. I am thinking 3 degrees pure pound of boost? Not real sure were the initial timing should be either at what RPM.

A lot depends on airflow, inlet air temp, compression and cylinder pressure, and octane.

In the TBSS we are seeing about 7psi and 11* timing on good gas (94 octane and propane) and lots of compression (10.9:1), right now. In kill mode it has been as high as 12psi and 11.5* (HP Tuners was calculating 732hp @ 6600rpm - LOL, riiight); Lambda was .74 (35% ethanol, propane, on 94 octane w/Torco octane booster).

You can use this to roughly convert Lambda to AFR: http://wallaceracing.com/air-fuel-lambda.php But, I stress that talking "AFR" is very limiting - informed tuners use Lambda.

Conversely, my Buick (stock low compression LC2) was always in kill mode with 91 octane, propane and alky injection - 30psi and 20* timing, AFR was 10.6:1 (not accurate on the gas scale because off all of the supplemental fuel injection).

So yeah, it'll take what it'll take.

Your biggest concern will be transitional timing under load (aka part throttle tuning) where you have a rapid rise in cylinder pressure... ie. passing up hill.

I am looking for a file I made years ago to help visualize the zones of timing map and volumetric efficiency map.

VE

SPARK

EDIT: Not what I was looking for but still enough to saturate your mind: http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=6744

 

[Turbo Zach]

My goal is to get it to run with 10-15 psi of boost with out detonation. I will creep up to that. Then my plan is to add meth injection and take it some were and get it dino tuned. Every were around here sells 91 octane and Walmart sells 94 or 97. Can't remember witch. So octane will not be a problem.

 

[motorheadmike]

My goal is to get it to run with 10-15 psi of boost with out detonation. I will creep up to that. Then my plan is to add meth injection and take it some were and get it dino tuned. Every were around here sells 91 octane and Walmart sells 94 or 97. Can't remember witch. So octane will not be a problem.

Understood. Just keep in mind that boost is just a measurement of a restriction - so all PSI isn't equal. IIRC, you have an upgraded turbo, but a dinky cam, tiny ports and valves (even compared to the LC2). So one good, and many unfavourable, factors are going to influence your tune and goals. Focus on airflow (aka. CFM) and your target AFR (about 11-11.5:1 to start)

I am not familiar with Holley's software and what you can, or cannot, adjust. But, if I had to wager I'd aim for about 18* total timing under boost and at max engine speed.

 

[motorheadmike]

I forgot to mention that you should consider putting the Holley sensor in your down pipe and your PLX sensor downstream after the downpipe.

The Holley will need to have the sensor up to temp sooner since it will rely on it once it tries to go into closed loop (usually triggered by the CTS). As well, keeping it warmer means it will likely function better. The other reason you don't want it pre-turbo is it becomes a restriction, and you will have a nicely emulsified exhaust gas mixture from all six cylinders... but that is a compromise.

 

[Turbo Zach]

Had a major set back today. I frayed a wire and probably the ECM in my new Holley Sniper. I got my wiring all done and thought I would put power to the car and make sure everything would power up. Turned the key on and it only took two seconds to fry it. Looked over my wiring and can not find anything I could have done wrong.

The only things I have wired to it besides the supplied sensors are magnetic pickup, two ground feeds to the fan relays, wire feeding the MSD box, and a tach. The thing that gets me is it did not blow the fuse or hurt any of the other wiring, only the power feed harness from the plug into the unit.

Like there is a dead ground in the unit it's self? If I had to much power feeding the 12 volt switched wire I would think it would have burnt that hole wire, but it didn't.

That wire is pigtailed with the switched wire for the MSD box and plugged into the old HEI switched power wire. And if I have the magnetic pickup wired backwards I don't think it would really matter. I don't know what is going to happen now? I emailed Chris. I will see what he has to say about it. What a **** of a end to the day!

 

[TURNA]

Looks like factory defect!!!!!!


Back in box and return!!!!!!