time for a new DD (honda EK project)

[the ghoul]

Well, lets see if this works. I used bondo brand short strand filler, resin jell, and fiberglass resin (because that's what I had kicking around from other projects). I combined all three and the fiberglass hardener to make a goopie mess, then packed the hallow spaces in the poly bits and smooshed them all together. Hopefully this will work out..

It seems to have cured hard enough, but I hope it holds up over time

I then started on the z6 intake manifold swap. I used a d16z6 spring and throttle body arm on my d16y7 throttle body.

It all bolted together nicely with the y7 injectors z6 fuel rail, and z6 cable. While I was in the re-arraging things mood, I went ahead and routed the wires and tucked them best I could

I also got as much of the little naggily engine bay bits bolted in that I could...

I am really pleased its actually starting to look like a car again!

 

[the ghoul]

the only thing I love about living in Detroit is the fact that you can order from summit racing in the evening, pay for standard shipping, and by 3pm the next day your order is on your door step!
So, I got the replacement alternator (the second one that is, the first one looked like it had been dropped and the casing was cracked.... did not notice that at the store..). The summit order was most of the fuel line parts I needed (-6AN straight fittings, 12mm 1.5 banjo to -6AN fitting, fuel filter with -6AN ends, and you guessed it -6AN line.... I forgot the -6AN to 5/16 hose adaptor for the stock fuel line).
This is about when the issues started stacking up. First, the 12mm x 1.5 thread pitch on the banjo fitting was too cores of a thread despite it being the finest thread summit offered.

and the stock banjo fitting was located by a lip machined into it

and the AN fitting is located using the stud and washer

so if you attempted to just use the banjo portion of the AN fitting you would run a big risk of it shifting positions and breaking the seal causing lots of fuel to leak out.
My solution was to run a 12mm x 1.5 tap into the fuel rail.


Ideal?

by no means!!

however, it was quick, simple, and cheap. I feel that the threads are close enough in pitch that you really wont be losing that much integrity, and because the seal is created between the banjo itself and the housing, any seepage from the "double thread" will be contained.

It was at about this point I got a little distracted and could no longer wait to see how the engine would look in the car!
I can easily pretend this decision was because I wanted to mock a few more things up (which I do....) but its mostly because of excitement!!

 

[the ghoul]

not much to report,
engines back out, ARP pressure plate bolts installed (because I lost the originals), rest of the engine dressed, 5/16 hard line to AN adapter installed....

and, a buddy got in contact because he wanted some welding done... I told him I wanted his 15" steelies and oversized blizzaks, so he brought them around tonight..
This is a big relief because the front tires were so bad they wont even hold air! so that's one more thing off the ever decreasing check list!!

 

[the ghoul]

Lots of little stuff acomplished;
Started by stripping the engine harness and re-arranging it

The main change is getting the drivers fender body harness connector to the firewall grommit that the ecu plugs go thru

I then opened up a hole in the firewall in a discreet location for the ecu grommit to go thru

I felt location was ideal, out of the line of site when engine is installed, and clears gas peddle

And it is perfect with the new ecu location (now that the air bag system has been removed)

 

[the ghoul]

Engine all wired up and ready to go in.. I'm really pleased I took the time to tuck the harness

 

[the ghoul]

Well here was my task;
Install a 40/40 prop valve that is matched to the upgraded brake system in the place of the stock unit that doesn't have any port locations in common. Place that new prop valve out of site (once the engines in), and run new lines as low and out of the way as possible!
So armed with some tig wire (to bend up a mockup lines), pipe bender, small pipe cutter, double flaring tool kit, 3/16 brake line, old brake fittings, and some beer!

As I said, tig wire is a great stand in for brake line in mockup. Bend and minipulated it as much as you want with ease. Then it's just a matter of bending up a hard line to mimic it and flare the line with the old fittings. Why old fittings? Mostly because they are free, aren't totally rusted, and I know they fit!!!

I should mention that I took the easy way out and used the rear brake lines to determane where the prop valve is located. I never have luck flaring stock lines. They always end up splitting. So I simply determined where the stock lines would reach with some re-bending that will be out of sight once the engine is in, and wouldn't require shortening them. Then it was a matter of making all the other lines new... So far so good; end of the night I ened up with the location found, the rear lines re-bent, the master cylinder lines fabricated, and the clutch hard line re-bent to be lower than stock!

 

[the ghoul]

Brakes are plumbed!

If you are thinking to yourself "so that looks exactly like the last picture" then I acomplished exactly what I was trying for!

 

[the ghoul]

Dang, parts pile is shrinking, but the parts list is growing...
Parts store got me the wrong bleeder valves so I ended up cross threading all my calipers thinking that it was just tight because of rust and paint. Plus I think I lost a bag of hardwear somewhere so... Gots to be replacing that!
However, on a good note, engine and trans is in, wired and plumbed!

And one of my theft deturrents has been fabricated

 

[the ghoul]

Just a few quick updates. Because I shaved the firewall and wanted to tuck the harnesses I had to re-route the main engine harness as well as the headlight/accessory harness.
I decided I would simply run the headlight/accessory harness in the outside of the inner front fenders.
So I started by drilling holes in the front side of the door jambs

The intent was to use the stock grommits that took those harnesses thru the firewall originally so I cut the holes accordingly.
Once that was established i then had to extend the harness.... This worked out well as we got a cold snap so it made a nice Sunday morning project

Once all that was done the install went easy and the grommets worked perfect!

I'm just now getting into the stretch where the little things will creep up and kill you... This project is providing plenty of them.... Today's was the cheap header that came with the car was just a bit too short so I had to extend it a bit...

However on the plus side, today when I was hunting for a few random parts I ran across an eg sedan that the yard just put out; it looked like the person that had it last took good care of it as the carpet was in great condition!
It's going to require a shampooing and a re-paint; but it sat in the cab of my truck all afternoon and I didn't pick up any weird smells off it!

 

[the ghoul]

Yesterday was oddly productive. After modifying the header I looked at the exhaust with fresh eyes and came to the conclusion I was not happy with the ground clearence. The collector sits about 4" lower than anything else on the underbody. I don't plan on lowering the car but it just bothers me!

So I made small pie cuts on the two down tubes just under the flange

Then rewelded and installed...

It's difficult to tell but it is a very big improvement!
I got the main power cable run, installed the rest of the HVAC system and installed the dash shell.

Because I removed the srs computer for the obd1 ecu to live the airbags have become inactive.
This gave me plenty of room to stow the fuse block

Honda made it really easy for my by constructing the airbag lid sepperate from the unit itself. So I shaved almost all the tabs off it

This works perfectly for a quick pop on pop off lid cover