What did you buy for your G body today? [2019]
- Thread starter 69hurstolds
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under 20 minutes to do a gear change and the straight cut gears sound awesome.... 👍
Please be sure to give us a review of the oil pan when you receive it. I will probably just use my GM original, but I can get this pan through my work for $144 delivered, so it could be an option. It's more than I want to spend on it, but we'll see...Milodon 30765.
Oil pan for the 403
Thats a great price.
I tried to get a stock big block pan with a baffle, but they are all 40+ years old show it.
Not that there is anything wrong with them, I would just be annoyed with using one.
I was going to get another China knock off for 60 buxx But didnt want to be bothered with more junk.
I'll keep you posted.
20!? taking a piss and a smoke break too?
Nobody asked but...
I can go from a 2.58 to a 9.14 ratio. I have a 2.92 in it now, gonna get a 3.15 set off eBay soon enough too.
Its actually (hopefully) going to go in Travis Jones car before winter. He wants to try some stuff including gear ratios to see what suits him, and I want to get some miles on it and make sure there are no issues with the rebuild before it sits. Hes wanting to cut down an S197 Crustang rear to put in his with the 3 link, this is a good opportunity for him to test some mounting locations both fore and aft and up and down. He has an AR5 colorado trans in his car hence the gearing being a little "different"
I have a slotted set of top links for a 3 link that hang the heim way off the back of the housing, not sure if they are too tall for the floor of the trunk or not.
What I have and a similar one if we want to shorten the top link
Its a friggen hodgepodge of parts but has gone together pretty well.
-Benson magnesium center (Johnny Benson Sr builds them here in GR)
-All grade 8 fasteners
-Winters flanged aluminum tubes
-Cambered bolt on snouts, I have 1.5 degrees on now and they are rotated a bit to split the misalignment between negative camber and rear toe in
-Allstar modular hubs
-Joes bearing preload spacers
-Made my own floater plate
-AP front cup car rotor, were used on the 31 RCR car at Bristol
-Wilwood FSLR4 radial calipers with BP40 Pads
-Random eBay Radial mounts for a superlite to 3" tube
-New speedway brand R&P i bought on clearance
-Traded the spool that came with it for a Detroit Locker and red springs in it
-Had a PEM gun drilled shaft but it didnt fit my yoke weirdly so its got a new PEM solid shaft
-Fastshafts +1" yoke, should make it so a stock drive shaft will work with it.
-Allstar tube brace kit
-ARP cover studs
-ARP wheel studs
-DCA race fab mount metric mount kit
-Quartermaster cambered drive flanges
Its 5x5 (they dont make modular hubs like this in 5x4.75) so I grabbed a cheap pair of Impala SS wheels, trying to figure out what color I want to powdercoat them in. Im thinking maroon like the maroon in the SS stripes but idk. I wanted to do pepto bismal pink and paint Patrick Star on there but the wheel isnt quite the right shape for it. I didnt want to machine on the wheels, luckily the hub bore is about perfect for the drive flange. Couldnt fit the 5/8ths studs though (5/8ths racing lugnuts are wrong for street wheels anyways) ARP makes a stud kit that has the knurl of a 5/8ths but is 1/2-20, apparently some late model jeeps use them.
Future plans for it, other than hunting around with gears, pad compounds, and hole locations
-REM polished ring gear
-REM polished lower shaft and axles
-REM polished / lightened spur gears
-REM polished, micro blued bearings, they are 100% timken throughout already
-Gold track or another type of worm gear style dif
-Gun drilled lower shaft, already will have gun drilled axles
-Cambered/crowned axles they allow another .5 degree of misalignment, the drive flanges only allow 2 degrees and I have a pair of 2.5 on the shelf
And eventually
-Making my own bellcrank mount for a watts link off the pinion plate/retainer. Coleman and Port city race cars both make ones that pivot right around the yoke, Howe has one that hangs off the side of the pinion
-Totally different rear suspension set up, in addition to the watts link... nobody asked about the round gold things on the tubes adjacent to the housing
Dont think Im made of money, just took a lot of trading, ebay, facebook, and swap meet sleuthing.
I probably 1500 or so in it but adding it up quick in my head it wouldve taken around $4000 to buy it all new as it sits.
The damn oil I just bought 6 quarts of was $20 a bottle, and Driven brand cambered drive flange grease is $50 a tub.
I did say under, it took one of guys a little more than that on our Winters rear end using hand tools.....
I saw them; I'll bite. What are they for? I just figured it was something to do with the tubes....
I didn't buy this today, but it did get delivered last night.
This is a billet intake manifold from Procharger for an LT1, the new LT1 stuff as you might know has direct injection, which means no injector bungs in the intake. I sent the intake out to 417 Motorsports and had it modified for EFI so that I can run it with my stand alone, between this and the DI that will give me 16 injectors so I can have the perfect blend of street manners and power (2000#/hr injectors drive like crap most of the time). Now it just has to get a burst panel installed, a new decorative top plate, and then be blasted and re powdercoated.
This is a billet intake manifold from Procharger for an LT1, the new LT1 stuff as you might know has direct injection, which means no injector bungs in the intake. I sent the intake out to 417 Motorsports and had it modified for EFI so that I can run it with my stand alone, between this and the DI that will give me 16 injectors so I can have the perfect blend of street manners and power (2000#/hr injectors drive like crap most of the time). Now it just has to get a burst panel installed, a new decorative top plate, and then be blasted and re powdercoated.
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