What did you buy for your G body today? [2023]

All the Chevy ones I saw were concave- the EFE pipe seat face curves inward and a doughnut gasket makes the seal. The Pontiac [and maybe others] is convex- the pipe seat curves outward. The concave head pipe flare fits tightly to the convex face of the EFE valve and seals without any gasket. Almost all the used or reproduced Chevy ones I found were for the Corvette. Maybe the Corvette was the only Chevy to use a gasket but I am no Chevy expert. They even make dummy EFE valves for Chevy big and small block. But they too are concave. Like this>>>>
ssh-emr004_dx_ml.jpg
Also the Pontiac bolt spacing is not the same as Chevy.

I had a chevy that used the convex type of valve you first showed. I've since sold it and replaced it with an older one that doesn't. For the life of me I never looked to see which emissions version it had, since I didn't do much work to it. I believe it was CA emissions which makes sense.

Does this look familiar:
004.jpg


If they are becoming as unobtanium as you say, I need to try and find/secure a few more of these because it's long been a delayed goal/dream of mine to clone an important vehicle from my past, first thing I ever helped out to change the oil on, but was scrapped without my knowledge when it developed some frame rot.
 
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And who'd have thunk that stock, genuine GM emissions parts would be worth much in the future...all those EFE valves and even the A.I.R. pumps are getting to stratospheric price levels, if you can even find them.
 
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Does this look familiar:
Yes, I think a few late 80's Chevies used the same type valve. But I can't find those either. Measure across the open end. If it is 2" then it is the same as mine. Pontiac head pipes are 2". I know the only Chevy one like that I had used a very small head pipe and it would not bolt up to my Pontiac manifold. I used to have a 1968 Buick LeSabre. I added a two-bolt EFE valve to the pass side exhaust pipe. I was able to weld the EFE body into the steel pipe. That replaced the idiotic counter-weight style heat riser. The vacuum type was MUCH better.
who'd have thunk that stock, genuine GM emissions parts would be worth much in the future
Unbelievable, right? I can get the Ram Air dual exhaust pipes in STAINLESS but I can't get a simple single exhaust head pipe for love or money. As for the EFE, I actually use my Bonnewagon and others in the Winter. I need EFE so I don't sit there wasting time and gas waiting for the engine to warm up. I use a 90° sensor so it shuts off fairly early. The factory had good reason to use these type things and I tend to agree. I especially like the THERMAC heated air cleaners in Winter. Don't get me started on how hard it is to find a stock Pontiac air cleaner nowadays.
 
xcookpac, can you share where you had this work done and the cost?
Hi there,

I shopped this job to the two local shops here in southeastern PA. Those shops being: i.) The Hubcap Store of Easton PA; and ii.) Wheel
Collision Center of Bath PA. I choose "i" (AKA THE Hubcap Store) and I am paying $125/wheel for wheel trueing, removal of existing paint/clear-coat, polishing, paint (lug nut pockets, radial lines and openings between "spokes") and clear coat. The other place was a bit more and farther away. I am attaching a before pic and, also a FB listing for the The Hubcap Store (IROC wheels in pic are $700 w/o cores and are made up of two fronts and two backs).
 

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I purchased four ("4") new tires for the above rims. I went with 225/55R16 tires. Some el cheapo brand from Walmart called Thunderer. These tires have a 90 day return policy. So, if no good, then they go back.
 
Thanks for the info xcookpac. I have a set (front and rears) of 87 IROCs on my 87 EC. I opted to install 1/2" longer studs and a 1/2" spacer on the rear axles in order to run the full set of front and rear rims. I have been considering redoing the rims myself.
 
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I just purchased 55mm domed metal decals for my IROC wheels. I just purchased two different styles. See pics below. THE SS decals are being custom made. I bought two different types as I am uncertain which one will look better.

PS The IROC center cap for the IROC wheels is made of plastic. The back side of the center cap has many flexible "teeth" which snap into the 2" hole on the IROC wheel. The front side of the center cap is about 2.375" (roughly 60mm). Decal fits into slight recess of center cap.
 

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I just purchased 55mm domed metal decals for my IROC wheels. I just purchased two different styles. See pics below. THE SS decals are being custom made. I bought two different types as I am uncertain which one will look better.

PS The IROC center cap for the IROC wheels is made of plastic. The back side of the center cap has many flexible "teeth" which snap into the 2" hole on the IROC wheel. The front side of the center cap is about 2.375" (roughly 60mm). Decal fits into slight recess of center cap.
An old trick on those gm plastic tooth caps from the ttype regal days was a dab of clear silicone sealant on the lip of the wheel around where it sat, press on, clean excess, allow to dry, then drive. Helped keep the teeth from breaking and caps coming off
 

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