What did you do to your G-Body today? [2011-2018]

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completely rewired my Taurus/TBird fan. Previously was blowing fuses and im not entirely sure what the previous owner was attempting to do with his wiring but none the less i have a high and low speed fan that works reliably thus far.

do you mind showing what you did?
 
Didn't want to run the rubber trans cooler lines through the holes I drilled in the rad support

So I picked up some 3/8 bulkhead fittings from a local boat marina.

 
do you mind showing what you did?
Well I don’t really have any pictures but I can give you a summary of what I did.

To start I got a 3 position rocker switch (on - off - on) that is back lit with led’s off amazon. Then I ran two signal wires through the fire wall. Hooked the switch to a key switch lead off of the gauge harness. The double pole double throw rocker switch had 7 pins. So I put jumpers across the pin sets at the top and bottom to illuminate the leds upon completion of the circuit and a ground run from pin #7 to the body. So I ended up with switch key switch voltage as my signal to my relays. Then hooked the signal wires to a relay a piece, 2 speeds, 2 relays. Then soldered up leads from the battery to the relays with inline ATC style fuses. Made a ground leads for the relays as well. Then finally I made a output lead from the relays to the high and low pins on the fan. The fan is a 620118. It has 3 pins low,high,ground. So once I had the leads hooked to the fan with female spade connectors(admittedly not the best but I couldn’t find the exact plug and pig tail locally, will be ordering the correct connector and pig tail this winter) I ran a ground to the battery. Checked one more time over my wiring, grabbed my fire extinguisher and gave it the ole college try.

I Have to manually switch my fans, which to some may be an issue but I went with a back lit switch for a reason and it’s been that way the whole time I’ve owned the car. I may consider changing to a thermostatic switch but I have all aftermarket gauges and put water and oil pressure in places I will be able to easily keep an eye on them.

I believe the relays are 40 or 45 amp. The inline fuses are 30 amp. Used 10 gauge wire for pretty much everything but the grounds and the signal wires.
 
So i installed a new booster and master a couple weeks ago. i noticed this week they are starting to get surface rust on them.

Anyone one have any remedies? Rub some wd40 on them every so often? paint?...
 
So i installed a new booster and master a couple weeks ago. i noticed this week they are starting to get surface rust on them.

Anyone one have any remedies? Rub some wd40 on them every so often? paint?...

If you want to keep them their natural color I spray them with clear engine paint.
 
I also noticed my new booster is developing some surface rust. As Steve suggested, I should have sprayed it with clear to keep the original appearance.
I've been using some rust preventative in the meantime. I'll probably end up repainting it.
 
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Mocked up my front spindle set up.
Wilwood GN6R caliper (a dummy I machined out of pink Ren) Alcon 1-5/8 13" rotor, floater plates I machined, port city hub, Coleman modular caliper with a bolt on snout, and a performance friction radial bracket, and It all went together about perfect. Talk about dumb luck

Just gotta get off my wallet and buy the actual calipers and another spindle snout.
 
Painted those new door handles I got for cheap

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Just sitting here thinking about how far I can push the wagon on spray; also thinking about swapping in a sacrifical junkyard engine. Does that count?
 
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