What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

[CopperNick]

About your Holley woes, Were it mine, the first thing I'd do would be to replace those cheesy factory float bowl screw gaskets with the ones from Moroso. Thicker, nylon/pvc, and totally reusable multiple times. Would also replace the Holley Gaskets with the Moroso ones for the same reason. Then I would go out and buy a tube of Chapstick; flavor is up to you. The Chapstick is used to coat the gaskets using a thin film of the stuff so that they are easier to fit and don't stick during any subsequent dissassembly. Then I would swap out the brass floats, if they are what are inside your float bowls,and sub in the E85 tolerant ones that Holley offers. The brass floats, particularly the older ones, were two piece and soldered together. E85 corrupts the solder and causes the seam to leak. Gas gets into the floats and sinks them. Pulled a float a little while back, looked just fine by eye but sloshed when you shook it.

You should not need to tweak the secondaries to get the carb to idle. Idling is a function of the primary circuit exclusively. if you can't get the carb to idle, check your adjustment on the idle stop screw. You may also have to visit your primary jets and do some research to see if they are too fat (or lean). Also make sure you are not pulling external air via a gasket leak. There are methods to test the carb using propane while the engine is running. Your culprit may also not be the carb as performance cams with higher lift or longer duration or both can generate low vacuum at idle. The spec sheet for the cam ought to offer some specs as to anticipated idle under certain conditions.


Nick

 

[CopperNick]

Oh, yeah, took the air line with the long gun on it and blew away the latest layer of dust that had landed on the Monte from all the sanding I 've been doing on the S-10 cab panel. Did some finish sanding on the reducers for the headers and found a set of Three Bolt reducers that will be used to create the coupling/connection between the mufflers and the over the diff portion of the tail pipes. May elect to take some pictures just to show how it all fits together (supposedly).

Nick

 

[CopperNick]

+1 on setting the float height. All you need is a large slotted screwdriver and a 5/8ths combination wrench. On a cathedral or centre float bowl (same-same), all you do is use the screwdriver to back off that flat headed screw-NOT all the way, just a turn or so. The you use the wrench to turn that thin hex nut. Turns clockwise will cause the float to drop and counterclockwise, to rise. You want to bring the float up so that more fuel will enter the bowl before the needle closes and shuts off fuel flow. Correct, as noted earlier, is when, with that little inspection screw removed, you are just getting a small trickle of fuel coming out that port. Don't lose that screw, they are not easy to replace. Once you have the float where you want it, retighten that slotted screw and make sure it is snug enough that the nut won't turn but not too tight; the bowl is aluminum. If you want to see which way the nut moves the float, do a dry trial of it while you have the bowl off, or use a bowl from another carb as a guinea pig. Be careful not to unscrew that thin nut completely, there is a thin fibre gasket under it that likes to escape and disappear.


Nick

 

[Neill]

I put new wheels and tires on my car.View attachment 156286

Those wheels, with the beauty rings, are perfect for your car.

 

[5spdCab]

Was going to work on the dash some more tonight, except I am enjoying the after dinner time to just relax. I did do some work on it yesterday evening and got it bolted back into the car, and some of the connections hooked up, such as the cable to the vent controls, vacuum line connector, bulkhead plug, and the main ground wire connection.

Still need to install the instrument cluster, plug in the brake light switch, the power feed to the fuel pump, delete the old ammeter wiring (or maybe tape the ends and save them for accessory power), decide whether to reinstall the vacuum gauge or not, install the stereo, and probably half a dozen other things that I can't think of right now. That would be for the interior, I still need to install the AC compressor, condenser, hoses, and other under hood components. Looking at the factory setup on my '79, I will probably have to get some two belt pulleys for the power steering pump, water pump, and crank shaft. When I get the interior back together again, I will be able to drive it and do the under hood stuff as I am able.

 

[MalibuDavyou5]

Got the Passenger Side floor pan and Rocker Panel sprayed, Now I am working from the Rear to middle, not much in the way of rust; couple of area's of the frame few other visible spots but otherwise it's almost done as far as I can do as Summer is coming to a close. But at least she will be ready for the new SBC Stock 350 I will have put in it. Still need to polish out the Clear coat, Which will happen soon. Rusty Drive Line, Suspension Front/Rear, these things I am not going to worry about as I will replace them through out the year as I can.

 

[1320John$$$]

More Rockauto parts
Finally a G body refrigerator magnet

 

[1320John$$$]

Finally was able to run the 88MC down the track tonight what do you think it ran
Stock 1984 305 8.6 compression
Summit camshaft K1102 204 214 @.050
Edelbrock performer intake
New valve springs comp magnum 1.52 rockers
600 Holley
MSD HEI 36 total
Stock 87 MC SS exhaust
Rebuilt 86 MC SS 200r4 transmission
Open rear with 2.73 gears
5100 rpm up shifts left it in drive
Remember I’m going to put the stock 87SS rear with 3.73 gears in for a apple to apple comparison

 

[sixty7rs]

MSD grid was taking up space in the tool box so I decided to use it on the elco made an aluminum glove box door to hold the ignition, looked like swiss cheese but all the holes that weren't used were filled, I also change the look of the car and installed new wheels.. and finally got to take it out for the second time this year
(knee surgery]

 

[pontiacgp]

MSD grid was taking up space in the tool box so I decided to use it on the elco made an aluminum glove box door to hold the ignition, looked like swiss cheese but all the holes that weren't used were filled, I also change the look of the car and installed new wheels.. and finally got to take it out for the second time this year
(knee surgery]View attachment 156332View attachment 156337View attachment 156338View attachment 156339View attachment 156340

looking up the power grid it looks like it's the black box for drag racers....